Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part1

Last modified:  April 17, 1995

------------------------------

Subject: 1  Introduction

Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting Information

The following monthly posting contains the answers to frequently asked
questions posed to rec.bicycles and interesting information that cyclists
might find useful.  Some of the answers are from postings to rec.bicycles,
and and some are condensed from postings.  Answers include the name and
email address of the author.  If no author is listed, I'm the guilty party.
If you're the author and I've misspelled your name or have the wrong email
address, let me know and I'll fix it.

****NOTE****: I am not the moderator or "person in charge" of the
rec.bicycles newsgroups.  I also have no way to help you with problems
reading the newsgroups unless you are at UCI; you'll need to talk to your
system or news admin for help.

If you have something you feel should be included in the FAQ, please write
it up and send it to me at the address below.

Note: I don't read each and every posting to rec.bicycles.*, so suggesting
that something be included in the FAQ may not be seen.  If you want
something included, summarize the discussion and send me the summary.

This FAQ is posted to rec.bicycles.misc, news.answers, and rec.answers
around the 15th of the month.  It is also available via anonymous ftp from:

   <ftp://draco.acs.uci.edu/pub/rec.bicycles/faq.*>
   <ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/rec.bicycles.misc/>
   <ftp://ugle.unit.no/local/biking/faq*>

Check the "Archives" section for information on how to obtain the FAQ via
email.
 

Mike Iglesias
iglesias@draco.acs.uci.edu
 

------------------------------

Subject: 2  Index

(! means updated since last FAQ.  + means new section.)

  1  Introduction

  2  Index

  3  Administrivia
     3.1  Abbreviations
     3.2  Gopher and World Wide Web access
     3.3  Archives
     3.4  Posting Guidelines
     3.5  Electronic Mailing lists

  4  Rides
     4.1  Maps
     4.2  Touring supplies
     4.3  Taking a bike on Amtrak
     4.4  Warm Showers List

  5  Racing
     5.1  Tour de France Jerseys
     5.2  Major Tour Winners 1947-1990
     5.3  Rating the Tour de France Climbs

  6  Social
     6.1  Bicycling in America
     6.2  League of American Bicyclists
     6.3  Rules for trail riding

  7  Marketplace
     7.1  Marketplace hints/guidelines
     7.2  Bike Trailers
     7.3  One Less Car T-Shirts
     7.4  Panniers and Racks
     7.5  Clothing materials
     7.6  Seats
     7.7  Women's Saddles
     7.8  Women's Bikes
!    7.9  Bike Rentals
     7.10  Bike Lockers
     7.11  Bike computer features
     7.12  Recumbent Bike Info
     7.13  Buying a Bike

  8  Tech
     8.1  Technical Support Numbers
     8.2  Ball Bearing Grades
     8.3  SIS Cable Info
     8.4  Milk Jug Mud Flaps
     8.5  Lubricating Chains
     8.6  Wear and Gear Slippage
     8.7  Adjusting Chain Length
     8.8  Hyperglide chains
     8.9  Bottom Bracket Info
     8.10  Crank noises
     8.11  Cracking/Breaking Cranks
     8.12  Biopace chainrings
     8.13  Snakebite flats
     8.14  Blown Tubes
     8.15  Mounting Tires
     8.16  More Flats on Rear Tires
     8.17  What holds the rim off the ground?
     8.18  Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
     8.19  Reusing Spokes
     8.20  Clinchers vs. Tubulars
     8.21  Presta Valve Nuts
     8.22  Ideal Tire Sizes
     8.23  Indexed Steering
     8.24  Center Pivot vs. Dual Pivot Brakes
     8.25  Seat adjustments
     8.26  Cleat adjustments
     8.27  SIS Adjustment Procedure
     8.28  Where to buy tools
     8.29  Workstands
     8.30  Workstands 2
     8.31  Frame Stiffness
     8.32  Frame materials
     8.33  Bike pulls to one side
     8.34  Frame repair
     8.35  Frame Fatigue
     8.36  Weight = Speed?
     8.37  Adjusting SPD Cleats
     8.38  Rim Tape Summary
     8.39  STI/Ergo Summary
     8.40  Roller Head Bearings
     8.41  Tubular Tire Repair
     8.42  Cassette or Freewheel Hubs
     8.43  Cassette or Freewheel Hubs take 2
     8.44  "Sealed" Bearings
     8.45  Installing Cranks
     8.46  Stress Relieving Spokes
     8.47  Traffic detector loops
     8.48  Gluing Sew-up Tires
     8.49  Common Torque Values
+    8.50  Measuring the circumference of wheels
+    8.51  Tubular Fables
+    8.52  Folding a Tubular Tire

  9  Misc
     9.1  Books and Magazines
     9.2  Mail Order Addresses
     9.3  Road Gradient Units
     9.4  Helmets
     9.5  Terminology
     9.6  Avoiding Dogs
     9.7  Shaving Your Legs
     9.8  Contact Lenses and Cycling
     9.9  How to deal with your clothes
     9.10  Pete's Winter Cycling Tips
!    9.11  Nancy's Cold/Wet Cycling Tips
     9.12  Studded Tires
     9.13  Cycling Myths
     9.14  Descending I
     9.15  Descending II
     9.16  Trackstands
     9.17  Front Brake Usage
     9.18  Slope Wind, the Invisible Enemy
     9.19  Reflective Tape
     9.20  Nutrition
     9.21  Nuclear Free Energy Bar Recipe
     9.22  Powerbars Recipe
     9.23  Calories burned by cycling
     9.24  Road Rash Cures
     9.25  Knee problems
     9.26  Cycling Psychology
     9.27  Mirrors
     9.28  Another Powerbar recipe
     9.29  Lower back pain

  10  Off-Road
     10.1  Suspension Stems

------------------------------

Subject: 3  Administrivia

------------------------------

Subject: 3.1  Abbreviations

Some common abbreviations used here and in rec.bicycles.*:

  FAQ  Frequenly Asked Question.  What you are reading now is a file
       containing answers to some FAQs.

  IMHO  In my humble opinion.

  TIOOYK  There Is Only One You Know.  Refers to the Tour de France.

See the glossary in the ftp archives for more bicycle-related terms.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.2  Gopher and World Wide Web access

I've made the rec.bicycles ftp archives available via gopher, and have
split the FAQ up into individual files for easier access via gopher.

To connect to the gopher server, use the hostname draco.acs.uci.edu and
port 1071.  Please don't ask me how to use gopher or how to configure
your gopher client; I don't know how to use all the available gopher
clients, nor do I have access to them.  Please talk to your local gopher
gurus.

You can also access the archives via the Web using this URL:

   <gopher://draco.acs.uci.edu:1071>

Again, please ask your local gurus for information on how to use Web
clients.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.3  Archives

I've made available via anonymous ftp a copy of the current FAQ and a
few other items on draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12).  This is the
workstation on my desk, so I'd appreciate it if people would restrict
their use to 7pm-7am Pacific time.  The files are in pub/rec.bicycles.

For those without Internet access, you can use the ftpmail server at
gatekeeper.dec.com to get copies of items in the archives.  I really don't
have time to email copies of files to people who can't get at them easily.
To use the ftpmail server, send an email message containing the line

help

in the body of the message to ftpmail@gatekeeper.dec.com.  You'll get
a help file back with more information on how to use the ftpmail server.

Here is an example of what to put in the body of a message to to get the
README file:

connect draco.acs.uci.edu
chdir pub/rec.bicycles
get README

                README for Rec.Bicycles Anonymous FTP area

arnie.light Arnie Berger's (arnie.berger@amd.com) "Ultimate bike light"

bike_gear.sea.hqx
  Lawrence Hare's (ldh@duck.svl.cdc.com) copy of a
  Hypercard stack to calculate gearing.  Lawrence says
  there is a newer version on major bbs systems.

bike.lockers David H. Wolfskill's (david@dhw68k.cts.com) summary of
  bike locker vendors.

bike.painting   Sam Henry's (shenry@rice.edu) collection of articles on
  how to paint a bike.

bike_power.*    Ken Roberts program to calculate power output and power
  consumption.  See bike_power.doc for more info.
  updated by Mark Grennan (markg@okcforum.oknorm.edu)

biking_log.* Phil Etheridge's (phil@massey.ac.nz) hypercard stack
  riding diary.  It keeps track of dates, distance, time,
  average speed, etc., and keeps running weekly, monthly,
  and yearly totals.  See biking_log.read_me for more
                information.
 

CA-veh-code A directory containing the California vehicle code sections
  that pertain to bicycles and gopher bookmarks.  See the
  README in that directory for more information.

camera.tour Vivian Aldridge's (viviana@tamri.com) collection of articles
  on cameras to take on a bike tour.

competitive.nutrition
  Roger Marquis' (marquis@well.uucp) article from the
  Feb 91 Velo News on nutrition and cycling.

computer.calibrate
computer.install
  Sheldon Brown's (CaptBike@aol.com) universal bike computer
  calibration chart and installation suggestions.

cyclesense Larry Watanabe's (watanabe@asimov.cs.uiuc.edu) copy of
  the "Cycle Sense for Motorists" ready to run thru LaTeX.

faq.*  The current Frequently Asked Questions posting

first.century Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) tips on training
  for your first century ride.

frame.build Terry Zmrhal's (terryz@microsoft.com) writeup of
  a frame building class he took.

gear.c  Larry Watanabe's (watanabe@asimov.cs.uiuc.edu) program to
  print gear inch tables.

glossary Alan Bloom's (alanb@sr.hp.com) glossary of bicycle terms.

lab.info Erin O'Brien's (bikeleague@aol.com) article on the
  League of American Bicyclists.

lights  Tom Reingold's (tr@samadams.princeton.edu) collection of
  articles on bike lights.

lights2  More articles from rec.bicycles.* on lights.

mtb.buy  Joakim Karlsson's (aviator@mv.mv.com) article on
  buying an entry-level MTB.

pam.bmb* Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) report on her
  Boston-Montreal-Boston rides.

pam.pactour* Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) writeup of her PAC tours
  across the country.

pbp.info Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) information
  on her Paris-Brest-Paris ride.

pictures Bicycling gif pictures.

prof.sched Roland Stahl's (stahl@ipi.uni-hannover.de) list of
  scheduled professional races in many countries.

pwm.regulator   Willie Hunt's (willie@cs.indiana.edu) design notes
                on a pulse width modulated voltage regulator.  Originally
                designed for caving, this design is adaptable to bike
                lighting.  The author has parts available in kit form.

ride.index Chris Hull's/Bill Bushnell's (bushnell@lmsc.lockheed.com)
  explanation of a way to "index" rides and compare the
  difficulty of different rides.

ridelg22.* Found on AOL by Gary Thurman (thurmag@csos.orst.edu), a
  ride diary program.  The .exe file a self-extracting archive
  for PCs.

spike.bike Bob Fishell's (spike@cbnewsd.att.com) Spike Bike series.
  They are numbered in the order that Bob posted them to
  rec.bicycles.  All the Spike Bike stories are
  "Copyright 1989 by Robert Fishell, all rights reserved."

spokelen11.bas Roger Marquis' (marquis@well.uucp) spoke length
  calculator, written in Microsoft Quickbasic.

spokelen.c Andy Tucker's (tucker@Neon.Stanford.EDU) port of
  Roger Marquis' spokelen11.bas to C.

spokelen.hqx Eric Topp's topp@roses.stanford.edu's Hypercard stack that
  computes spoke lengths.

studded.tires Nancy Piltch's (piltch@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov) compilation
  of messages on studded tires, including how to make your
  own.

tandem.boxes Arnie Berger's (arnie@col.hp.com) notes on how
  he built a box to transport his tandem to Europe and
  back.  It's taken from a longer travelogue on his trip - if
  you want more information, contact him at the above
  address.

tech.supp.phone Joshua Putnam's (josh@Happy-Man.com) list of technical
  support numbers for various manufacturers.  This list
  used to be in the FAQ but now is too long to include there.

trailers A summary posting of messages about bike trailers.  Good
  stuff if you're thinking of buying a trailer.

wheels.*.hqx    R. Scott Truesdell's (truesdel@ics.uci.edu) Hypercard
  stack to calculate spoke lengths.  See wheels.readme
  for more info.

wintertips Pete Hickey's (pete@panda1.uottawa.ca) notes about
  how to cycle in the winter.

wintertips.pam  Pamela Blalock's (pamela@keps.com) winter cycling tips.
 
 

Files available via anonymous ftp from ugle.unit.no (129.241.1.97) in the
directory local/biking. This directory is maintained by Joern Dahl-Stamnes
(dahls@fysel.unit.no).

Last updated: July 3rd, 1994.

File  What

READ.ME  Information about the other files in the directory.

bm106a.zip The latest version of Bike Manager. Bike Manager is a
  shareware program that help you keep a log of your training
  activities. It can report summary reports,  weekly reports,
  monthly reports and yearly reports. Features to analyze your
  activities against your goals. And more...

brake.doc About how to make your own brake booster.

gtos91.doc A story from The Great Trial of Strength 1991.

gtos92.doc Same, but for the 1992 trial.

gtos93.doc For the 1993 trial.

toj93.doc The Tour of Jotunheimen 1993 report.

faq.*  Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and
  Interesting  Information (ASCII text format).
 

velo.txt Description about Velocipede (TM) for Windows.

velo*.zip Velocipede (TM) for Windows. Velocipede is a window based
  training log program based on the ideas in Bike Manager.
  Compared to Bike Manager, Velocipede offers a better user
  interface, graphic presentation and more. For more details,
  see file velo.txt.
  Velocipede is a shareware program.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.4  Posting Guidelines

The rec.bicycles subgroups are described below - please try to post your
article to the appropriate group.  The newsgroups were designed to minimize
cross posting, so please take the time to think about the most appropriate
newsgroup and post your article there.  Most postings to rec.bicycles should
not be cross-posted to groups outside of rec.*.

rec.bicycles: DO NOT USE THIS NEWSGROUP - it should have been dropped
   from news servers, having been replaced by rec.bicycles.misc.

rec.bicycles.marketplace: Bicycles, components, ancillary equipment and
   services wanted or for sale, reviews of such things, places to buy
   them, and evaluations of these sources.  Not for discussion of general
   engineering, maintenance, or repair -- see rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.tech: Techniques of engineering, construction, maintenance
   and repair of bicycles and ancillary equipment.  Not for products or
   services offered or wanted -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace.

rec.bicycles.rides: Discussions of tours and training or commuting routes.
   Not for disussion of general riding techniques -- see rec.bicycles.misc.

rec.bicycles.soc: Social issues, cycling transportation advocacy, laws,
   conduct of riders and drivers; road hazards such as potholes, dogs, and
   sociopaths.

rec.bicycles.racing: Race results, racing techniques, rules, and
   organizations.  Not racing equipment -- see rec.bicycles.marketplace
   or rec.bicycles.tech.

rec.bicycles.misc:  General riding techniques, rider physiology,
   injuries and treatment, diets, and other cycling topics.

rec.bicycles.off-road: Discussion of riding on unimproved roads, gravel, dirt,
   grass, sand, single track or 4x4 roads.  Also discussion of environmental
   issues, trail issues, backcountry travel, how to handle conditions
   (technically and evo-sensitively), off-road magazines and other media.

------------------------------

Subject: 3.5  Electronic Mailing lists

tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu  A mailing list for tandem bicycle enthusiasts.
 Suitable topics include questions and answers related to tandem
 componentry, riding technique, brands and equipment selection,
 prices, clubs, rides and other activities, cooperating on a section
 on tandems for the rec.bicycles.* FAQ, etc.  For more information
        send mail to "listserv@hobbes.ucsd.edu" with the body of the
 message having the line "info tandem", or point your WWW client at
 <http://www-acs.ucsd.edu/home-pages/wade/tandem.html>, or
 finger tandem@hobbes.ucsd.edu.

BOB is the Bridgestone Owner's Bunch, and this is the internet
 edition of it.  This is a mailing list, not a newsletter, and has no
 connection with the real Bridgestone-sponsored BOB except in name and
 in spirit.  Get more information by sending mail to
 bob-request@cs.washington.edu.

HPV list  The HPV list is for the discussion of issues related to the
   design, construction, and operation of human powered vehicles
   and closely related kin. (Hybrid  human/electric, for example.)

   For further information, send a mail message containing the
   following single line in the message, to listserv@sonoma.edu:

   info hpv

BICYCLE on LISTSERV@BITNIC.BITNET
        or LISTSERV@YUKON.CREN.ORG
 
   The BICYCLE list was formed to provide a forum for cyclists to
   discuss all topics related to bicycles, mtn.  biking, and cycling in
   general.  This is NOT the place to discuss issues related to
   motorcycling.
 
   To subscribe to BICYCLE send the following command to LISTSERV@BITNIC
   or LISTSERV@BITNIC.EDUCOM.EDU in the BODY of e-mail:
 
      SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE real name
 
   For example: SUBSCRIBE BICYCLE John Doe
 
   Owner: Chris Tanski  CTANSKI@ONONDAGA.BITNET
                    or  captanski33@snycorva.cortland.edu
 

BikeMidwest

  A new regional internet discussion group has been started to discuss bicycle
  advocacy issues in the midwest area.  BikeMidwest was started to connect
  cyclists in L.A.W. Regions 6, 7, 8 and 9.  That is, the states of Ohio,
  Kentucky, Tennessee, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota,
  Iowa and Missouri.  Of course, people from outside this area are welcome
  to join.
 
  Subscriptions to the list are handled by a computer program called
  Majordomo.  To subscribe, send a message with the following command in the
  body of the message to Majordomo@fuji.physics.indiana.edu:
 
  subscribe BikeMidwest
 

 Bicycle BBS

 BicycleBBS offers free access to cyclists.  The # is 619-720-1830.
 The BBS is run by Neil Goren, Neil@BicycleBBS.Org.

 BicycleBBS also has a mailing list.  Anyone can join by sending e-mail to:

 ARMBRC-request@BicycleBBS.Org and put "JOIN" in the text body anywhere.

------------------------------

Subject: 4  Rides

------------------------------

Subject: 4.1  Maps
From: Jim Carson <carson@rice.edu>
Updated-From: Joel Spolsky <spolsky@panix.com>

Adventure Cycling Association maps are not free, but you can get them
without joining.  To order stuff with Mastercard or Visa, you can call
+1 (406) 721-1776 (24 hr).  Maps are currently (Feb 1995) $8.95 each to
"non-members," $5.95 each to "members." There are also small discounts for
sets of maps and members in the continental US don't have to pay for
surface shipping and handling.

Scale of the maps is generally 1" = 4mi/6.4km.  Certain areas are more
detailed when necessary.  I like the maps because they have lots of
interesting features labeled (campgrounds, grocery stores, major
changes in elevation, historical info about the region,...), they're
printed on a water-resistant paper, and they fit nicely into a handlebar
bag map case.

As of Feb '95, there are three transcontinental (W-E) routes an east coast
(N-S) route, a west coast route (N-S), and a middle route and numerous
routes among the various parks in the western U.S. and Canada.

Membership is $25 individual; $35 family; $19 for students/seniors.
Lifetime is $475; $650 for couples.

Members get copies of Adventure Cycling Association's magazine, Adventure
Cyclist, published 9 times annually, a list of tours run by Adventure
Cycling Association, and the annual _The Cyclists' Yellow Pages_.  _The
Cyclists' Yellow Pages_ provides *LOTS* of interesting information on
touring and points of contact for more information about cycling and
touring all over the world.  (For example, they have an arrangement with
The Netherlands Service Center for Tourism whereby you can purchase
full-color, 21" x 38", 1:100k scale, Dutch-language maps.)

Adventure Cycling Association's address and phone:

 Adventure Cycling Association
 (406) 721-1776, fax (406) 721-8754
 PO Box 8308
 Missoula, MT 59807-8308

------------------------------

Subject: 4.2  Touring supplies
From: Scott "gaspo" Gasparian <gaspar@inf.ethz.ch>

 Recently, I asked the group: what do you bring with you on medium
trips? (medium being more than one nite, and less than a week).  I
received some excellent replies, a few great stories, and lots of things
that I never would have thought of. (at least not until I needed that
spare spoke that is).

Ok, for all of you who don't know what to bring with you on that
next medium trip...
 

FOOD:
 Here, just whatever you normally consume.  If you plan on
staying in a hotel/B&B, then obviously 1 day's worth is enough.
Standard things like power-bars and drink mixes should do the trick.
Since I'm not going to BFE, I have no idea what to pack for a real
"camp-out" type tour.  This subject is enough for a discussion in
itself, but I just eat what I want.

CLOTHING:
 Almost everybody suggested something different, rangin from hi-
tech bodysuits to cutoffs and T-shirts.  However, everybody agreed on the
indispensibleness (tm) of rain gear.  Specifically, light waterproof
pants and jacket are not only good for staying dry, but have a very high
warmth/weight ratio.
 A spare change of skivies, and a pair of dry socks were also
highly recomended.  A pair of jeans or a "smushable outfit" can come in
handy, but I usually smell so bad after a day of riding that anybody who is
talking to me doesn't care what I wear.  If it might be non-warm, a
watch-cap or other non-helmet type hat can help.

FIRST-AID:
 Outside of the standard band-aids/antiseptic-goop bit, sunscreen
and bug-away topped the lists.  Asprin or Ibuprofen and rolaids were
mentioned, but I guess thats a personal thing, just like...

TOILETRIES:
 I stick with: soap, toothbrush/paste, deodorant.  That covers
all I need, but everybody has different needs, and I'm not even gonna
touch the "personal hygeine" stuff.  A razor is handy too, it can help
keep that road-rash dressing from ripping all your remaining hair out.

MISC:
 I'll put the tent/pit stuff into this category.  Robyn Stewart
gave an excellent testamony to the uses of rope and tarps.  A piece of
rope stretched between two trees can keep the food above the
critter-level, and can also provide a rudimentary tent with the aid of
an old shower-curtain.  Again, there is a whole area of discussion here
on the pits and mattresses, but if it keeps you warm and dry, it works.
 

TOOLS:
 Basically, this could be split into two different classes, with
things like tire-kit being in the "fix it yourself" category, and other
stuff like a chain remover tool is in the  "how far will I be from
civilization" range.  This was what I really wanted to know about when I
posted my request, so a little more info than the first groups.

Most of this depends upon how much work _YOU_ do to your velo.  If
replacing spokes is trivial to you, then you already know what tools to
bring.  Also, wrenches and screwdrivers are very velo dependent: handy
sizes for a MTB might be useless for a nice racer, and vice-versa. Tools
that tune more than repair are also an individual call.  I always carry
a hex-wrench that fits my brake-shoe adjustment bolt, but never the larger
one that actually removes the entire caliper.

 pump
 pressure gauge
 flat kit
 wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
 hex(allen)-wrenches (sizes and type for your velo)
 chain tool
 chain links
 tire levers (plastic)
 spoke wrench
 safety wire
 duct tape
 zip ties

SPARES:
 Again, these fall into "distance from civilization" categories.
For example, that nut that connects your front mudguard to the forks
is essential, but could be fixed with the safety wire until you find a
velo-shop/store that might have a replacement.  Then again, one little
nut is easy on space/weight, and it may be hard to get a replacement if
your velos measurements are non-standard.  If you have a hard-time
finding a replacement for that random part at your local store, bring
one with you.

 inner tubes
 tire-boots
 brake shoes
 light bulbs
 spokes (labeled if different, tied to the frame)
 nuts and bolts for rack/fenders/etc.
 tire (if you're _really_ out there)
 toe-clip strap
 shoe-laces
 cable (especially if yours are longer than normal).
 cable housing (for the shimano special shifter ones)

NIFTY IDEAS:
 Here are some of the better inside tips that I found both
humorous and usefull....

mjohnsto@shearson.com (Mike Johnston)
 A sock (to keep tools inside and for keeping grease off my hands
 during rear wheel flats)

s_kbca@dante.lbl.gov (Steve Kromer)
 The most important article to take along on a long ride
 seems to be faith.

chris@wg.estec.esa.nl (chris rouch)
 15cm of old tyre

Robyn Stewart <slais02@unixg.ubc.ca>
 Enough money to get Greyhound home if something goes terribly wrong.

sarahm@Cadence.COM
 bungie cords - you never know when you might want to get that
 set of six beer mugs as a souvenir and transport it on the
 back of your bike.

cathyf@is.rice.edu (Catherine Anne Foulston)
 ZAP Sport Towel.  I think it is really useful because you can
 get it wet and it still dries you.

------------------------------

Subject: 4.3  Taking a bike on Amtrak
From: Carlos Martin <martin@morticia.Princeton.EDU>

The following article relates my own experience in taking a bike
as luggage on the Amtrak in the summer of 1992.  It is intended to
offer advice to those who might choose to do the same, and is not
intended to reflect the views or policies of Amtrak.  For reference,
I traveled from Trenton to Pittsburgh at the start of a tour.

Traveling with a bike on Amtrak can be problem-free if you take a few
precautions.  Amtrak handles bikes at stations that check in baggage.
(Smaller stations and some trains don't check baggage at all.)
There is a $5 baggage fee for bikes, and it includes a box.  Call
the station several days before your trip and notify them that you
will need a bicycle box.

The box they provided was big enough to accomodate my relatively
long-framed touring bike (Specialized Expedition) without taking off
either wheel, and with room to spare lengthwise.  You will, however,
have to remove the pedals (even clipless ones) and turn the handlebars
to fit the bike in the box.  Plan on putting only the bike in the box -
no helmet or panniers.  (You may want to check with Amtrak on this point -
they may not cover damages to the bike if you packed other stuff
in the box.)

Before leaving home for the station, loosen your pedals and stem
enough to make sure you won't need heavy-duty tools at the station.
Plan to arrive at the station one and a half hours before departure
time - Amtrak wants all checked baggage at least a half hour before
departure (they may tell you one hour).  Don't forget to keep your
tools handy.

At the station, go to the baggage room, get your box and some tape
from the attendant, remove the pedals, and loosen the stem bolt and
the bolt that holds the handlebars in the stem.  Hold the front
wheel between your feet as you turn the handlebars parallel to the
top tube.  Roll the bike into the box and seal the ends.
If everything goes smoothly, you can do the above packing in
ten minutes.  Now go have lunch before you get on the train
unless you want to take your chances with train food.

BTW, the trains are very roomy and comfortable, particularly if
you are accustomed to traveling in airline cattle coaches.
I would travel by Amtrak again in a similar situation.
(The usual disclaimer applies:  I have no connection to Amtrak,
other than being a taxpaying subsidizer and occasional user
of the rail system.)

------------------------------

Subject: 4.4  Warm Showers List
From: Terry Zmrhal <terryz@microsoft.com>

The Warm Showers List is a list of Internet Cyclists who have offered
their hospitality towards touring cyclists.  The extent of the
hospitality depends on the host and may range from simply a spot to
pitch a tent to meals, a warm (hot!) shower, and a bed.

If you wish to obtain the list, please email me at terryz@microsoft.com.
The actual Warm Showers list is not posted since it contains
personal information (addresses, phone numbers, etc.).

If you wish to be included on the Internet Warm Showers list, please
answer the questions below my signature in return mail to me. I have also
included in parenthesis a reason or two for the inclusion of each item
based on my experiences two summers ago.  Once I have received your
information, I will add it to the list and then you will receive the
complete list also.

Thanks to All
Terry Zmrhal
terryz@microsoft.com
'The Horizon is but a line to be crossed, not a limit to be reached.'

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Name:
(Who are you?)

Email Address:
(For pre-trip communication.)

Non-Email Contact (Address, Phone, and/or Work Phone):
(For communication once someone is traveling.)

Nearest largest city (>50,000 people) (and state):
(It's much easier to find a large city on a map than a small one, and
some small ones aren=92t even on some maps!)

Direction and Distance from above city:
(Some cities are very large and getting through or around a city can be
very difficult.)

Will provide-
Lawnspace (for tent or sleeping bag)?  Floorspace (for sleeping bag)?
Bed (Wow!)?
(Cyclists' gotta sleep.)

Food? (or distance to nearest grocery store or restaurant - if known)
(Cyclists' gotta eat.  You can provide as much, or as little, as you
want.)

Shower? (or distance to nearest motel - if known)
(It can be a real boost to know shower is waiting at the end of the
day?)

Availability:
(If only available some months, please indicate this, otherwise 'year-
round'.)

Cost to Cyclist, if any:
(Do you wish any money for your hospitality?  How much? (please, no more
than $5-$10))

Preferred Notice:
(Do you require advance notice?  If so, how many days (weeks) notice?)

Maximum Number of Cyclists:
(You don't want a major tour coming through :-)

Storage:
(Is there a safe place to store bikes?  If so, Storage for how many
bikes?)

Nearest Motel:
(Distance, Cost - if known)
(In case a host isn't home, for an emergency, etc.)

Nearest Bike Shop:
(Name, Phone, Distance, Reputation - if known)
(In case bike repairs are needed - good to know where good shops are.)

Any additional comments you would like each interested person to know
before contacting you?

------------------------------

Subject: 5  Racing

------------------------------

Subject: 5.1  Tour de France Jerseys
From: Chris Murphy <murphyc@bionette.CGRB.ORST.EDU>

Chauner and Halstead (1990) in "The Tour de France Complete Book of Cycling"
explain:

YELLOW Jersey -- Overall leader, first awarded during the 1919 race (TdF
       started in 1903); yellow to match the paper used to print L'Auto
       (Automobile Cyclisme), a French newspaper about bike racing.

POLKADOT Jersey (White w/red dots) -- Best climber, determined by points
         scored by the first 3 to 15 riders finishing selected mountain
         stages (number of riders awarded points varies with the
         difficulty of the stage). First awarded 1933.

GREEN Jersey -- Points jersey, usually won by sprinter-types, with points
      given to the first 25 riders to finish each stage. First awarded 1953.

YELLOW Hats -- First place team, determined by combined elapsed times of the
       the team's top 3 riders.

In the event of a rider leading the race and also deserving one of the other
jerseys, the race leader wears yellow, and the 2nd place in the category wears
the category jersey.

------------------------------

Subject: 5.2  Major Tour Winners 1947-1990
From: Tim Smith <tsmith@gryphon.CTS.COM>

[Ed note:  I'm hoping Tim won't be too upset if I add to the list he posted.
I need some help filling in the last few years.]

Winners of the Big Three National Tours -- Since 1947:

 Tour de France  Giro d'Italia  Vuelta d'Espana
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
1947 Jean Robic (F)  Fausto Coppi (I) E. van Dyck (B)
1948 Gino Bartali (I) F. Magni (I)  B. Ruiz (E)
1949 Fausto Coppi (I) F. Coppi  (not held)
1950 Ferdi Kubler (CH) Hugo Koblet (CH) E. Rodriguez (E)
1951 Hugo Koblet (CH) F. Magni  (nh)
1952 Fausto Coppi  F. Coppi  (nh)
1953 Louison Bobet (F) F. Coppi  (nh)
1954 Louison Bobet  C. Clerici (CH)  (nh)
1955 Louison Bobet  F. Magni  J. Dotto (F)
1956 Roger Walkowiak (F) Charly Gaul (L)  A. Conterno (I)
1957 Jacques Anquetil (F) Gastone Nencini (I) J. Lorono (E)
1958 Charly Gaul (L)  E. Baldini (I)  Jean Stablinski (F)
1959 Federico Bahamontes (E) Charly Gaul  A. Suarez (E)
1960 Gastone Nencini (I) Jacques Anquetil (F) F. de Mulder (B)
1961 Jacques Anquetil A. Pambianco (I) A. Soler (E)
1962 Jacques Anquetil F. Balmamion (I) Rudy Altig (D)
1963 Jacques Anquetil F. Balmamion  J. Anquetil (F)
1964 Jacques Anquetil Jacques Anquetil Raymond Poulidor (F)
1965 Felice Gimondi (I) V. Adorni (I)  R. Wolfshohl (D)
1966 Lucien Aimar (F) Gianni Motta (I) F. Gabica (E)
1967 Roger Pingeon (F) Felice Gimondi (I) J. Janssen (NDL)
1968 Jan Janssen (NDL) Eddy Merckx (B)  Felice Gimondi (I)
1969 Eddy Merckx (B)  Felice Gimondi  Roger Pingeon (F)
1970 Eddy Merckx  Eddy Merckx  Luis Ocana (E)
1971 Eddy Merckx  Gosta Petersson (S) F. Bracke (B)
1972 Eddy Merckx  Eddy Merckx  J-M Fuente (E)
1973 Luis Ocana (E)  Eddy Merckx  Eddy Merckx (B)
1974 Eddy Merckx  Eddy Merckx  J-M Fuente
1975 Bernard Thevenet (F) F. Bertoglio (I) Tamames (E)
1976 Lucien van Impe (B) Felice Gimondi  J. Pesarrodona (E)
1977 Bernard Thevenet Michel Pollentier (B) Freddy Maertens (B)
1978 Bernard Hinault (F) J. de Muynck (B) Bernard Hinault (F)
1979 Bernard Hinault  Giuseppe Saronni (I) Joop Zoetemelk (NDL)
1980 Joop Zoetemelk (NDL) Bernard Hinault (F) F. Ruperez (E)
1981 Bernard Hinault  Giovanni Battaglin (I) Giovanni Battaglin (I)
1982 Bernard Hinault  Bernard Hinault  Marino Lejarreta (E)
1983 Laurent Fignon (F) Giuseppe Saronni (I) Bernard Hinault (F)
1984 Laurent Fignon  Francesco Moser (I) Eric Caritoux (F)
1985 Bernard Hinault  Bernard Hinault  Pedro Delgado (E)
1986 Greg Lemond (USA) Roberto Visentini (I) Alvaro Pino (E)
1987 Stephen Roche (EIR) Stephen Roche (EIR) Luis Herrera (Col.)
1988 Pedro Delgado (E) Andy Hampsten (USA) Sean Kelly (EIR)
1989    Greg Lemond (USA) Laurent Fignon (F) Pedro Delgado (E)
1990    Greg Lemond (USA) Guanni Bugno (I) Marco Giovanetti (I)
1991    Miguel Indurain (E) Franco Chioccioli (I) Melchior Mauri (E)
1992    Miguel Indurain (E)     Miguel Indurain (E)     Toni Rominger (CH)
1993    Miguel Indurain (E)     Miguel Indirain (E)     Toni Rominger (CH)
1994    Miguel Indurain (E)

The Tour started in 1903, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1940-1946.
The Giro started in 1909, and was not held 1915-1918 and 1941-1945.

Source: 1947-1982: "La Fabuleuse Histoire du Cyclisme" by Pierre Chany.
        1982-1988: my fallible memory. Would someone complete 1983 and
 1984, and correct any mistakes? Thanks.

One interesting observation: almost all the winners of the Tour were
big names in their time (yes, even Charly Gaul and Jean Robic.)

There were no same-year winners of the Tour and the Giro before 1949.
In fact, the first year a non-Italian won the Giro was 1950.

------------------------------

Subject: 5.3  Rating the Tour de France Climbs
From: Bruce Hildenbrand <bhilden@bigriver.Eng.Sun.COM>

One of the most frequently asked questions is how do the organizers
determine the ratings for the climbs in the Tour de France(TIOOYK).
The Tour organizers use two criteria 1) the length and steepness of
the climb and 2) the position of the climb in the stage.

It is important to note several things before this discussion begins.
First, the organizers of the Tour have been very erratic in their
classifications of climbs.  The north side of the Col de la Madeleine
has flip-flopped between a Category 1 to an Hors Category climb,
even though it seems to be in the same position of a stage every
year.

Secondly, rating inflation, so rampant in other sports has raised
its ugly head here.  Climbs that used to be Category 2 are now
Category 1, even though, like the Madeleine, they occupy the same
position in a stage year after year.

Let's talk about the ratings.  I will give you my impressions
on what I think the criteria are for rating the climbs based on
having ridden over 75 of the rated climbs in the major European
tours.

Note that gradual climbs do not receive grades.  It has been my
observation that about a 4% grade is necessary for a climb to get
rated.  Also, a climb must gain at least 100m for it to be rated.

Category 4 - the lowest category, climbs of 300-1000 feet(100-300m).

Category 3 - climbs of 1000-2000 feet(300-600m).

Category 2 - climbs of 2000-3500 ft.(600-1100m)

Category 1 - climbs of 3500-5000ft(1100-1500m)

Hors Category - the hardest, climbs of 5000ft+(1500m+)

Steepness also plays a factor in the rating.  Most of the big climbs
in the Alps average 7-8% where the big climbs in the Pyrenees average
8-9%.

Please remember that I am giving very, very rough guidelines and
that there are exceptions to every rule.  For example, L'Alpe D'Huez
climbs 3700ft(1200m), but is an Hors Category climb.  This is because
it usually comes at the end of a very tough stage and the climb itself
is unusually steep(~9%) by Alpine standards.

More confusing is the Col de Borderes, a mere 1000ft(300m) climb outside
of Arrens in the Pyrenees mountains.  I have seen it rated anywhere from
a Category 3 to a Category 1!!!  This is most likely due again, to its
placement on the stage.  The Category 3  rating came when it was near
the beginning of a stage where its Category 1 rating came when it was
near the end.

Flat or downhill sections can also affect a climb's rating.  Such
sections offer a rest to the weary and can reduce the difficulty
of the climb considerably.  This may be one of the reasons that
the aforementioned Col de la Madeleine, which has a 1 mile downhill/
flat section at mid-height, flip-flops in its rating.

I am often asked how climbs in the United States compare to those in
Europe.  Most of the US climbs are either short, but steep enough by
European standards(6-8% grade) to fall into the Category 3 or possibly 2,
or the climbs gain enough altitude, but are too long(they average <5%)
so again they would fail to break the Category 1 barrier and end up
most likely a Category 2 or 3.

Fear not, there are exceptions.  Most notable to Californains is
the south side of Palomar Mountain which from Poma Valley climbs
4200' in 11 miles, a true category 1 ascent.

A popular Northern California climb, Mount Hamilton, is similar to
Palomar Mountain but, fails to be a Category 1 climb because of
two offending downhill section on the ascent.

For Coloradoans, you can thank the ski industry for creating long,
but relatively gradual climbs that rarely exceed 5% for any substantial
length(5+ miles).  I never had to use anything bigger than a 42x23
on any climb in Colorado, regardless of altitude.  Gear ratios of
39x24 or 26 are commonplace in the Alps and Pyrenees and give a very
telling indication as to the difficulty of European climbs.

One potential category 1 climb for Coloradoans may be the 4000 ft.
climb in about 15 miles from Ouray to the top of Red Mountain Pass.

Also, remember we are rating only paved(i.e. asphalt) roads.  Dirt roads
vary considerably in their layout, condition and maintenance because there
really are no guidelines for their construction.  This makes it difficult
to compare these climbs and inappropriate to lump them with paved roads.

One last note.  I think it is inappropriate to compare the ascents of
climbs by the European pros with the efforts of us mere mortals.
I have said this time and time again and I will repeat it now.  It
is very, very hard for the average person to comprehend just how
fast the pros climb the big passes.  Pace makes all the difference.
Riding a climb is very different than racing it.

Bruce

------------------------------

Subject: 6  Social

------------------------------

Subject: 6.1  Bicycling in America
From: Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

(or How to survive on a bicycle)

In America, bicycling appears to be an unacceptable activity for
adults.  It is viewed as a pastime reserved for children (people who
are not old enough to drive cars).  Adults who sense that they are
violating this stricture, excuse their bicycling by representing it as
the pursuit of physical fitness.  They refer to their bicycling as
training rides.  Rarely do you hear a cyclist say "we were bicycling"
but rather "we were on a training ride".  Certainly most of these
people never race although one might assume, by implication, that
their other rides are races.  Some also refer to themselves as serious
cyclists, a term used to describe those who, typically, keep track of
pedaling cadence and other bicycling statistics, thereby giving proof
that they are not engaged in child's play.

In contrast, Europeans seem able to accept bicycling as a proper
activity for all ages.  That is to say, motorists do not treat
bicyclists with apartheid and bicyclists do not feel the need to
justify their pursuit as anything other than bicycling, for whatever
reason.  In Europe cadence on speedometers is an un-marketable
function for unexplained reasons, however, one could imagine that for
the average cyclist it is a useless statistic, except for those on
"training rides".

With this perception of bicycling in America, non cyclists and some
occasional cyclists are offended by others who bicycle on public roads
in the presence of automobile traffic.  "Get the f#%k off the road!"
and similar epithets are heard from drivers, some of whose cars are
equipped with bike racks.  It is similar to gay bashing; by expressing
public outrage they demonstrate abhorrence of unacceptable behavior.
The same is true of bicyclists who deride others in public for not
wearing a helmet.  Aggressive self righteousness is probably a fitting
description.

Another motive behind such behavior may be a sense of dissatisfaction
with ones life.  Anyone who is perceived as having fun, or at least
more fun than the subject, needs to be brought down a notch.
Psychologists who have interviewed youths that go "wilding" have
gotten responses to the effect that "my life is terrible and I can't
stand people who are having fun".  So these youths attack others and
beat them bloody.  In a manner that may not make sense to others, they
bring their victims down a notch to achieve parity.

There is little doubt that bicycling has its hazards.  You can fall by
running into a pothole or an obstacle, by riding into a grating, or
falling on loose gravel or a slick manhole cover.  There are enough
hazards without the threat of being run down by a car.  However, the
whole sport loses its appeal when motorists, who believe that adult
bicycling is offensive, actively engage in making it a deadly
endeavor.

The scenario:

In a typical encounter a driver says to his passenger "You see that
guy on the bicycle?  That's a dangerous place to ride." while slicing
within inches of the cyclist.  The passenger is truly impressed with
the danger of bicycling, especially in the presence of this driver.

I don't understand how drivers justify such behavior but I think I
know what is going on.

Examples:

o  The buzz and swerve routine:

A driver slices dangerously close even though there is no opposing
traffic.  Then he drifts to the edge of the pavement to make clear how
far he went out of his way for the cyclist.  The desired path was even
nearer the road shoulder than at the passing point.  The buzz and
swerve is executed equally well consciously and subconsciously.

o  Center court, extra point:

The car, on a visibly empty stretch of road, travels perfectly
centered between the median and edge stripes, even when this requires
passing within inches of a cyclist.  It appears that the driver is
awarding himself points for not flinching when passing cyclists and
extra points for proximity.  In the event of a collision it is, of
course, the cyclist who swerved unexpectedly.  The precision with
which the driver executes this maneuver, in spite of the danger, makes
the center court game conspicuous.  People generally don't drive
exactly centered in a lane, especially when there is an obstacle.

o  Honk and slice:

The buzz and swerve or center court routine can be enhanced by honking
a single one second blast.  This is usually done at a far greater
distance than a sincere warning toot; about 200 yards works best.
This is a great crutch for the driver who subsequently collides with
the cyclist.  "But I warned him!"

o  The trajectory intercept:

A car is traveling on a road that crosses the cyclists path at right
angles.  The car and bike are equally distant from the intersection
but at different speeds.  With skill, the driver of the car can slow
down at a rate that lets him arrive at the intersection at precisely
the same time as the cyclist.  The bicyclist who has a stop sign may
now come to a complete stop and wait for the driver who is only
looking out for the cyclist's safety.  If the cyclist doesn't stop,
the driver honks and yells something about breaking the law.

Extra points are gained by offering the right of way to the cyclist,
in spite of moving traffic in the adjacent lanes.

o  The contrived hindrance:

A driver refuses to pass a cyclist on a two lane road until the
passenger asks how much longer they must follow this bicyclist, or
until the following cars begin to honk.  Then, regardless of
visibility or oncoming traffic, an inopportune pass is executed after
which each of following drivers makes it clear when passing that it
was the cyclist who was responsible for the near collision.

o The rear-ender:

While riding down a mountain road, the cyclist catches up with a car
that notices his rapid approach.  If an oncoming car approaches the
driver slows down, obviously for safety sake, and then suddenly slams
on the brakes when there is no place for the cyclist to go.  Bicycles
cannot stop as fast as cars since cars can safely skid the front
wheels but bicycles can't.  This game is the more dangerous variation
of speeding up every time the cyclist tries to pass but to drive as
slowly as possible everywhere else.

One explanation for these maneuvers is that the driver recalls that
riding in the mountains was always too hard and riding down hill was
scary.  This cyclist can't do what I couldn't do and I'll show him a
thing or two.  Thus the driver proves to himself that not riding in
the hills was for safety's sake, it had nothing to do with physical
ability.  It fits into the " I'll teach that smartass a lesson.  There
is little risk for the car because in a rear-end collision the vehicle
behind is, with few exceptions, found at fault.

So why does all this go on and on?

It is not as though they are all hostile drivers; some are just
frustrated drivers.  They may still be getting even for some bicycle
accident they had in their youth and don't want others to get off any
easier.  Some are angry at having to spend the time behind the wheel
while other "irresponsible adults" are playing on their bicycles.  I
believe the meanest ones are insecure people who don't feel as though
they are accomplishing what they expect of themselves and don't like
to see others have it any better.  Many drivers believe that the only
part of the road to which a bicyclist is entitled is the road
shoulder, unless it occurs to the driver to use that part too.

A bike rack on a car may lead you to believe that the driver has a pro
bicycle attitude.  Some people use bike racks to transport family
bicycles to a park where they can be ridden safely without venturing
onto dangerous roads; roads that are meant for cars.  Among these
people are some of the strongest opponents of general bicycling.  They
take refuge in the belief that, if they should run you down while
playing center court, it would prove that you should bicycle as they
do, and not get in the way of cars.

What to do?  Don't fuel the flames.  Don't return the rudeness that is
dished out.  Take legal action where appropriate (and possible).
Don't posture in traffic drawing attention to some undefined
superiority to people who sit in cars.  Don't balance on your bike or
ride in circles in front of cars waiting at a red light.  Don't make
moves in traffic that are either discourteous, or at best, awkward but
legal.  If you hear loud knobby tires coming, believe it!  That guy in
the extra tall pickup truck with the all terrain tires, dual roll bars
and multiple searchlights is not a friend of yours coming close to say
hello.  Give him room.

------------------------------

Subject: 6.2  League of American Bicyclists
From: Erin O'Brien <bikeleague@aol.com>

The League of American Bicyclists, (founded as the League of American
Wheelmen) has been working to improve the quality of bicycling in America
almost as long as there have been bicycles.

In the 1870s the forefathers of bicycling banded together to lobby the
government for more paved roads and to put a stop to antagonistic acts from
other road-users.  United in 1880 as the League of American Bicyclists, their
mission has carried on throughout the history of bicycling.
 
Fashioned after "The Good Roads Movement" of the 1880's, our current agenda
is embodied by the L.A.W. Safe Roads Movement, a comprehensive program that
aims to reduce the number of injuries and deaths to cyclists.  Highlights
of this 10-pointaction plan include educating bicyclists and other road
users about thei rights and responsibilities to safely share the road, and
promoting the improvement of road design and maintenance to better
accommodate bicycles.

The League's Effective Cycling program is making great strides to advance
this agenda.  Taught by certified instructors, it is the only national
bicycling education program that combines the technical training needed to
safely negotiate any traffic situation, with the principles of safe,
responsible riding.

L.A.W. sponsors National Bike Month (May), which serves to promote the
various aspects of bicycling.  In 1992, L.A.W. founded The International
Police Mountain Bike Association (IPMBA) to address the growing need for
information, assistance, and training to start-up bicycle-mounted police
patrols.

L.A.W. played an instrumental role in the passage of the Intermodal Surface
Transportation Equity Act of 1991 (ISTEA), federal legislation allowing
both for increased spending on bicycling improvements and for bicyclists to
participate in local transportation planning.  L.A.W. also publishes the
bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin, which provides the most
comprehensive, bicycle advocacy and planning information and advice
available in the nation.

In between advocacy and education efforts, L.A.W. manages to find time to
enjoy bicycling.  L.A.W.'s national and regional rallies bring together
members from all over the U.S.A. and Canada for great riding and
entertainment, daily workshops include, advocacy, safety, club leadership,
cycling techniques, and more.

Pedal for Power, another division of L.A.W., hosts Across America and
North-Southa rides that raise money for bicycling and various charities of
the rider's choice.

Eight issues per year of Bicycle USA magazine to keep members up to date on
League activities.  Regular features include effective cycling tips,
Government Relations and Education columns, cycle news, and an event
calendar.  Special issues include an annual Almanac and Tourfinder.  L.A.W.
offers national touring services to members including Ride Information
Contacts in every state.  While touring, members can also stay in the homes
of more than 600 fellow members, free of charge, through the Hospitality
Homes network.

League members can fly their bikes for free on TWA, America West, USAir,
Continental, and Northwest airlines when they make their travel
arrangements through the Sports National Reservation Center.

L.A.W. is a 501c-3 non-profit organization with membership of more than
24,000 bicyclists and 500 affiliated clubs and coalitions nationwide.
Individual membership costs $25/year or $30 for families.  Advocacy
membership, which includes the bi-monthly Bicyclist Advocacy Bulletin costs
an additional $10/year.

To join the League of American Bicyclists send your membership contribution
to 190 W. Ostend St., Suite 120, Baltimore, MD 21230-3755, or call (410)
539-3399.  For membership by phone call 1-800-288-BIKE.  For a membership
form to pay by credit card see the "How to Join League" file.

------------------------------

Subject: 6.3  Rules for trail riding
From: Roland L. Behunin <behunin@oodis01.hill.af.mil>

The Salt Lake Ranger District of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest has
some guidelines for trail riding in their district.  Here they are:

1. Yield the right of way to other non-motorized recreationists.
People judge all cyclists by your actions.  Move off the trail to
allow horse to pass and stop to allow hikers adequate room to share
the trail.

2. Slow down and use caution when approaching another and make your
presence known well in advance.  Simply yelling bicycle is not
acceptable.

3. Maintain control of your speed at all times and approach turns
anticipation of someone around the bend. Be able to stop safely within
the distance you can see down the trail.

4. Stay on designated trails to avoid trampling native vegetation, and
minimize potential erosion by not using wet or muddy trails or
shortcutting switchbacks.  Avoid wheel lockup.  If a trail is steep
enough to require locking wheels and skidding, dismount and walk your
bike.  Locking brakes contributes to needless trail damage.  Do not
ride cross-country.  Water bars are placed across to direct water off
the trail and prevent erosion.  Ride directly over the top, or
dismount and walk your bike.

5. Do not disturb wildlife or livestock.

6. Do not litter.  Pack out what you pack in and carry out more than
your share whenever possible.

7.  Respect public and private property, including trail use signs, no
trespassing signs, and leave gates as you found them.  If your route
crosses private property, it is your responsibility to obtain
permission from the landowner.  Bicycles are excluded from designated
Wilderness Areas.

8.  Always be self sufficient.  Your destination and travel speed will
be determined by your ability, your equipment, the terrain, and the
present and potential weather conditions.

9.  Do not travel solo in remote areas.  Leave word of your destination
and when you plan to return.

10.  Observe the practice of minimum impact bicycling.  "Take only
pictures and leave only waffle prints."

11.  Always wear a helmet.

12.  If you abuse it-you lose it!.  Since mountain bikers are
newcomers to the forests, they must prove to be responsible trail
users.

From personal experience, you may also want to add the following
information:
 

13.  In National Parks and National Monuments bicycles are considered
vehicles and restricted to roads.
 

14.  On BLM land - ride only on roadways, trails, and slickrock.  The
desert crust (microbiotic crust) is fragile and takes up to 50 years
to recover from footprints, waffle tracks, etc.

15.  When camping out of improved campsites camp at least 500 feet
off the road or trail.  Try to leave no trace of your campsite.

16.  Toilets in unimproved areas - move off trail, and dig a 1 foot
deep pit, cover after use.
 
------------------------------

Subject: 7  Marketplace

------------------------------

Subject: 7.1  Marketplace hints/guidelines
From: Jim Siler <ksi@panix.com>

: Are people really willing to pay 10% less for a "nearly new" MTB when
: they
:   a) often have no assurance that it really hasn't been used
:      (except of course someone's word)

:   b) may have to buy, unseen.

:   c) may not get a transferable waranty on the MTB

I think that in general, many people are acutely aware of what they
spent for a thing and are woefully unaware of how much value that thing
lost when they walked out of the store.  Let's assume for a moment
that I buy an XTR rear derailleur in my local shop (good practice,
worth some added cost) for $100.  I use it for a week, and trash my
frame and want to part it out.  Hmmm... this was $100 new and its only
a week old, virtually new.  Let's ask $90 o.b.o. and see what happens.

Now I change roles and become the buyer.

I go to my local bike shop, where I trust the owner and am willing
to pay a premium, but no XTR rear derailleur.  Next stop mail order.
Everyone but everyone has it for $80, plus shipping, but less tax.
They will take a credit card.  The unit is warrantied, in the box,
with instructions (the value of which should not be underesimated).

Given this I am unlikeley to even consider the used part.  But let's
suppose I offer $75, and send off my money order, sight unseen.
What can happen?

1 -- It never arrives.  After a number of hassles and excuses I
 realize that there is a major problem.  Email stops being
 returned.  I contact his sysadm, who can't do much.  I
 publicly flame him, starting one more interminable flame
 war.  Eventually I either get my $75 bucks back or not.
 Even if I get the derailleur (remeber, the original
 object was the derailleur) I have bought myself
 hundreds of dollars worth of aggravation.

2 -- It arrives and looks like hell.  C'est la vie.

3 -- I arrives and one week later it is obvious that something
 is seriously wrong.  No amount of adjustment will cause
 it to shift reliably for any length of time.  See 2, above.

4 -- While waiting for arrival i trash MY frame.  Derailleur
 arrives.  Sadly, I have nothing to hang it on.  See 2,
 above.

Let's run through the same scenarios having purchased through mail
order, using a credit card.

1 -- I don't pay.  If they get pissy about it I do too.  As most
 mail order houses have, at best,  a fragile relationship
 with Mastecard/Visa (it is VERY difficult to open a merchant
 account to accept credit cards over the phone for mail order,
 so difficult that many use their in store accounts, faking
 signatures) and are dependent on that relationship to stay
 in business, they tend to become most reasonable when you
 make real noise with the credit card company.

2 -- Unlikely, as goods should be new.  See 1, above.

3 -- Warranty problem.  If you have a good local dealer, you
 would have been better off there.  If you have a so-so
 dealer you may well be better off through mail order.
 Worse comes to worst, see 1, above.

4 -- Worst case, you eat a restocking fee.

In general, I would be hesitant to buy anything here for much more
than 60% of its mail order price, unless the product is exactly
what I want and all else is right.

I have bought two things this year through this group, a GT Zaskar LE
frame, new in the box with slight cosmetic ding for $350 (negotiated
from $375) and a Flashlite 2 tent with a tiny hole, professionally
repaired, for $100.  Both carried resonable prices in the original
post, offered to pay the shipping, and clearly spelled out the
possible problems with the product for sale.  Both sales were
satisfactory to all involved, and I am delighted with both.

I have seen many other Items for sale that I have wanted and bought
elsewhere because the posted prices were so ridiculous that I
had no basis for negotiation.  Typically, these are reposted with
sad wonderings as to why no one has responded.  C'est la vie.

In general, I think that anyone wanting to move something quickly
through posting should do the following:

 Be realistic with price.  Look at the true market value of
 your goods.  It is not what you paid.  You are going to take
 a loss.  If your fork, which was the hottest thing in July
 of this year, cost you $600 in a store is not any better
 than the new $375 fork that is available in December, its
 market value is certainly no more than $375, if it is new.
 Unless limited availability takes it out of the commodity
 realm (e.g., my Zaskar frame with blemish had only limited
 availibility) knock off 40% of the realistic market value.
 Our fork is now down to $225.  If this makes you too
 queasy, up it a bit and throw in shipping, say $275 with
 U.P.S. ground shipping, hmmm... not too bad.

 Clearly state everything of importance to the buyer, good
 and bad.  This will avoid later hassles, and greatly increase
 your trust factor.

 Don't initially offer at an inflated price, thinking to
 negotiate down (remember back to Onza Clipless Pedals for
 sale flame war).  It just makes it clear to an intellegent
 buyer that you are hoping to find a sucker, and will take
 whatever advantage you can.  This may not be true, but it
 will be clear, nonetheless.  Trust factor goes down the
 toilet.

 Make phone contact as soon as possible.  A human voice is
 often more comforting than an email address.

To anyoune who has read this far, thanks for putting up with my
rambling and opining.

------------------------------

Subject: 7.2  Bike Trailers

[Ed note:  The posting I saved on bike trailers is over 145k bytes, so
if you want a copy see the section on "Archives".]

------------------------------

Subject: 7.3  One Less Car T-Shirts
From: Alayne McGregor <alayne@gandalf.UUCP>
                       (Ed Ravin  panix!eravin@cmcl2.nyu.edu)

The T-shirts are produced by Transportation Alternatives, a New York
City bicycle activist group. They're 100% cotton, have the TA logo
on the front, and ONE LESS CAR on the back.  Call TA for colors and
sizes currently in stock.  They're US$15 each.  No refunds or
exchanges.  Allow 6 weeks for delivery.  For people who have to
drive but feel guilty about it, they also have "I'm Polluting the
Atmosphere" bumper stickers at 3 for $5.

Send orders to:

Transportation Alternatives
92 Saint Marks Place
New York, NY 10009
USA
attn: One Less Car

I happen to have one of these shirts in my closet right now. Causes lots
of comments when my covivant and I ride our tandem with both us wearing
our shirts.

------------------------------

Subject: 7.4  Panniers and Racks
From: Sharon Pedersen <pedersen@cartan.berkeley.edu>

This is a condensed version of a longer article on panniers, low-rider
racks, loading and generators. --Sharon   pedersen@cartan.berkeley.edu

        --PANNIERS--
Price--cheaper may not be better, if they fall apart.  Commuting to
school entails stuffing sharp-cornered books into them thus making
sturdiness as important here as for touring.

Cut--an angled cut may make those books not fit so well.

Pockets--convenient for organization, but cuts down on versatile use
of space.  You can use stuff sacks for organization instead of pockets.
One big and one small pocket on each pannier is plenty.

Fastening--lots of options:  bungees and hooks, or fixed placement
hooks, or straps with buckles or cams.  Bungees and hooks have been
just fine in my own road experience, but for off-road riding, you will
want more security.  However, don't get a system with so many
attachments that you can't stand to take the panniers on/off.

Brands--the following is a by no means exhaustive list, with
telegraphic comments made in 1988.  Check local stores since features
may have changed since then.
  Eclipse--(no comment);  Kirtland--tourers like them;
  MPacks--panniers made by an actual bike tourer, Mike Center, in
    Santa Rosa, CA, (707) 545-4624;
  Maddens--made in Boulder, "superior construction at better than
    average cost" yeah!  (I love mine, write for more glowing testimonials);
  Performance--low-cost, non-spring attachment;  Rhode Gear--expensive;
  Tailwind--aerodynamic, rigid attachment.

    --LOW-RIDER RACKS--
  Some manufacturers: Bruce Gordon, Blackburn, Vetta, Voyager.  The
Bruce Gordons are more expensive (~$70 in 1988) but are designed with
clearance for the quick-release skewer so you don't have to pry them
apart to take the front wheel off.

       --REAR RACKS--
  (No comment in the original article;  Blackburns seem to be the
standard and durable enough.)

        --LOADING--
  Balance the load side-to-side and, if possible, fore-and-aft.
Keep heavier items low and towards the bottom bracket.  Rider, bike
and luggage together should have 55-60% of weight on rear wheel;
remainder on front.  Bike with front low-riders is quite stable.

       --GENERATORS--
  The usual location on the left seat-stay interferes with panniers.
Mount the generator on the right seat-stay facing the other way, and
it will work fine, despite rotating "backwards."  Or go with a
generator under the bottom bracket, which will have the advantage of
putting the wear on the tread rather than the sidewall of the tire.
 

------------------------------

Subject: 7.5  Clothing materials
From: Jim Carson <carson@mu.rice.edu>

[Ed note: From a summary Jim posted]

Polarlite
  Fluffy, fleecy stuff also called Polarplus and Synchilla.  Comfortable.
  Incredibly warm, especially under something that breaks the wind.
  Doesn't wick moisture out very well.  Breathes very well.

Supplex (nylon)
  Comfortable.  It is breathable and water repellent (but NOT water proof).
  Seems to absorb a small amount of water if it is really getting drenched
 
Merino (wool)
  From a "breed of fine-wooled white sheep originating in Spain and producing
  a heavy fleece of exceptional quality."  I guess you could treat this as
  normal 100% wool.
 
Thermax
  An improvement on Polypro.  The big advantage is heat resistance so
  you can put it in the dryer.  Balance that against the extra cost.
 
CoolMax
  This stuff seems more like a plastic bag than the revolutionary wicking
  material it is advertised as.
 
Dacron
  Trademark name for Dupont polyester.  Woven fabric made from dacron is
  similar to nylon ripstop or taffeta, but not as stretchy.  Many of the
  better clothing insulations are made from dacron.  They are usually refered
  to by more specific trademark names, like quallofil, hollofil, polarguard,
  and dacron-88.
 
Lycra
  Used for its stretch, mostly a warm weather (>65 degrees) thing.

GoreTex
  A teflon based membrane with microscopic holes.  Gortex's claim to
  fame is that it will let water vapor (from perspiration) through, but
  not liquid water (rain).  It blocks wind fairly well too.  The
  membrane is delicate, so it always comes laminated between 2 layers of
  other material.  It does not breathe enough.  There are less expensive
  alternatives.
 
Polypropylene
  Does not wick very well.  Can be uncomfortable.  Troublesome to
  care for (e.g. can pill badly)  Will keep you fairly warm if soaked.
  Not very wind resistant.  Melts in the dryer.
 
Capilene
  Wicks moisture away.  Very comfortable.  Comes in different weights
  for more/less warmth.  [lots of favorable things about it... only
  really unfavorable thing is the co$t]
 
60/40 cloth -
  This is a cloth with nylon threads running one direction, cotton in
  the other. It was the standard wind parka material before Goretex came
  along, and is considerably less expensive.  Good wind resistance,
  fairly breathable.  Somewhat water resistant, especially if you spray
  it with Scotchguard, but won't hold up to a heavy rain.
 
------------------------------

Subject: 7.6  Seats

Seats are a very personal thing, for obvious reasons.  There are several
types of seats:

Leather
  Seats like the Brooks models.  Usually used by hard-core riders.  Requires
  breaking in before it's really comfortable.

Padded
  The usual bike seat, sometimes refered to as "anatomic".  Has padding
  where your "sit bones" (bottom of pelvis) supposed to rest.

Gel
  Like the padded seats, except they have a gel (e.g. Spenco Gel) in them
  for additional padding.  Reportedly, the gel can harden and/or shift,
  making the seat uncomfortable.

There are several types of seat pads (gel filled, containing an air bladder,
etc) that can be fitted over the seat to make it more comfortable.

If you are experiencing pain in delicate areas (especially you women readers)
you should make sure your seat is adjusted correctly (see the section on
seat adjustment).  Women may need a women's type seat, which is wider in
the back (women's sit bones are farther apart than men's).  Most pain
can be eliminated by a correctly adjusted seat, using a women's seat,
and riding so your body becomes used to it.



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