Archive-name: bicycles-faq/part2

[Note:  The complete FAQ is available via anonymous ftp from
draco.acs.uci.edu (128.200.34.12), in pub/rec.bicycles.]

------------------------------

Subject: 7.7  Women's Saddles
From: Pamela Blalock <pamela@keps.kodak.com>

Many women who cycle have experienced frustration with trying to find
a comfortable saddle. It is amazing how many times I end up talking
with other women about saddles.  This article comes from those
discussions and an informal survey of woman's saddle preferences. This
is a dynamic article and changes on occassion, so if you have comments
please contact me (pamela@keps.com) and I will incorporate your
comments.

While this is intended to be an article on women's saddles, since so
many other things can contribute to potential saddle pain, it will
also address some of these issues as well.

Just as women are different from men, we are also different from each
other.  Since (fortunately) there is no mold into which we were all
poured, what works for one woman may not work for another.

First, be sure that your bike fits properly.  Many women end up with
overly padded shorts and a big fat thickly padded saddle instead of
with a bike that fits properly. No saddle will be comfortable if the
bike is too big, or set up incorrectly. It is important to find
someone who knows about fit and specifically about women's fit and get
the bike set up properly before making other changes. In addition to
being more comfortable, a bike that really fits will also handle
better than one that is improperly sized. It isn't always easy to find
someone willing to take the time, but when you find a shop that will,
give them lots of business and send your friends there! Go to shops
during non-prime hours for the best service. You won't get a salesman
to spend an hour letting you try different saddles on a Saturday
afternoon, but you might on a Tuesday morning.

Most production bikes are built proportionally for the average MAN.
Using the old guidelines of sizing a bike by straddling the top tube
may leave you a bike with a top tube that is too long, since most
women have proportinally longer legs and shorter torsoes.
Surprisingly, this can cause saddle pain. It is not necessary to run
out and buy a new bike right away if the top tube on your current bike
is too long. Using a shorter stem on a this bike may give you a more
comfortable reach. Very short stems, less than 40 mm, are available,
but may have to be specially ordered.

Some shops use a fitting system called the Fit Kit. The numbers
generated from the Fit Kit are just guidelines and may not work for
everybody, especially women. It is important to RIDE your bike and
make adjustments to achieve a perfect fit. Others may use an
infinitely adjustable stationary bike. One has been developed by Ben
Serotta to help choose the perfect size bike - whether it is a Serotta
or not. Adjustable stems are available to help you and the shop pick a
perfect length stem the first time. Unless your current bike is a
really, really poor fit, you should be able to make a few relatively
inexpensive changes to improve the fit.  Then when upgrading or buying
a new bike, use what you have learned to buy a bike that fits better.

Several manufacturers have started building bikes proportionally sized
for women to specifically address our needs.  For petite women, these
bikes may have a smaller front wheel to get the shorter top tube, but
not all women's bikes have a 24" front wheel.  Some have two 26" or
700C wheels, depending on size and geometry. A sloping top tube is now
being used by many manufacturers to achieve a shorter effective top
tube without going to smaller wheels. In addition to a shorter top
tube, women's bikes may also have smaller brake levers, narrower
handlebars, shorter cranks and wider saddles.  Georgena Terry was the
pioneer in this area, but many other manufacturers now build women's
bikes. They may cost a little more than a comparably equipped man's
bike, due to higher production costs for fewer number of parts.  But,
I believe that the extra initial cost to get a properly fit bike will
pay off in the long run, since you will either stop riding an
uncomfortable or poorly fitting bike, or you will eventually replace
the poorly fitting parts at additional cost. You don't have to buy a
women's bike though. Taller women may select a frame with a little
shorter seat tube, and therefore a proportinally shorter top tube.
(This obviously won't work if you are already on the smallest size
frame!) Of course, as I said earlier, we are all different and some
women may not need any special adjustments made to their non-custom
off-the-shelf bikes. But they are the lucky few!

And I would be completely negligent if I didn't mention that one
respondent said that recumbents almost always solve the uncomfortable
saddle problem.  (Thanks to David Wittenberg for pointing this out.
His wife won't ride anything else.)

Now to saddles. A woman's hip bones tend to be set farther apart than
a man's.  (This is a design feature to help with childbirth!)  Every
woman is different, and there are many women out there with narrower
hip bones. To determine where you sit bones are, sit on a low curb.
Sorry, a chair won't do! When you sit on the curb, you will be able to
feel your sit bones. This is what you want supported by your bike
saddle. Avocet used to (and maybe still does) run a great ad showing a
hip bone sitting on a saddle.  With a saddle that's too narrow, a
woman may find herself effectively straddling it with her hip bones,
or slipping off of one side and pinching nerves - which may eventually
cause the legs or feet to go numb. A saddle that's too wide will also
cause problems.

A saddle that's slightly wider in the back (than the man's saddle that
comes on most stock bikes) may offer better support for the sit bones.
I have quite a few retired women's saddles with depressed gel
indicating exactly where my bones are. Actually, looking at your old
saddle will tell you a lot about where you do and do not need support!
It's important to try out several different saddles to find one that
fits.  Unfortunately no one manufacturer makes different sized women's
saddles - but the widths do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer -
so for example, if the Terry is too wide or too narrow, try the Vetta
or Avocet or some other brand. Ask your local dealer to let you put
your bike on a trainer in the shop and try sitting on and riding a few
of his saddles. Saddles are fairly easy to change and a good shop
should be willing to let you try this. (But not on a busy Saturday
afternoon!)

There are several women's saddles on the market, many of which are
made with some form of gel. I have used (and retired) several of these
with no complaints. The gel does compress after a while (regardless of
sex), so these saddles do have to be replaced (for me it's every
10,000 miles). Brooks also has a women's leather saddle, which some
women swear by. I swear at them, but that's me! (And there are women
who swear at the saddles I swear by!)

Many women who responded to my survey said that they have the nose of
their saddle tilted slightly forward to alleviate pressure on the soft
tissue. A large variety of saddles were used with this method. One
rider pointed out that having a seatpost with infinitely adjustable
angles, like the American Classic or Control Tech, will help one to
find the perfect angle. With the rachet type adjustment of most, she
was never able to get the angle quite right. One problem with having
the saddle tilted too far forward is that you may end up with two much
weight/pressure on your wrists and hands. The result is numb hands and
pain in the lower back.

In John Forester's "Effective Cycling" book, he suggests getting a
cheap plastic saddle and carving out a depression in the area where
the labia would normally rest.  This would place the weight on the sit
bones where it belongs, and remove it from the genital area, where it
does not. A couple of women used this idea and modified saddle pads in
this way. I watched a Spenco pad slowly get modified in this way each
day throughout PAC Tour this year. One survey respondent cut up a
neoprene pad and put it under the covering of her Flite saddle.

There are two women's saddles which specifically address this issue,
the Terry Sport and the Miyata Pavea. Both are shorter and wider
than the typical man's saddle and both have a hole in the nose to
suspend soft tissue. These saddles should be comfortable when level.
The Miyata leaves the hole exposed, while the Terry is covered in an
open-cell low-density foam. I understand there is a saddle available
now that is split up the middle and hinged in the front, so you can
adjust it for your desired width. I'll update the article as soon as I
can get my butt on one! But I did hear from a friend of a friend that
had one and really liked it.

I have used both the Terry and the Miyata. (These were the two most
popular saddles in the survey.) I've received lots of positive
comments from women (and men) about their experiences with these
saddles.  The men seem to notice the difference more after the ride
later in the evening :) :) :)

Last year I did a 750 mile ride on the back of a tandem in less than 4
days.  That's a lot of time on a saddle. I'd been using the Terry for
over 6 months and it worked great on everything up to 200 miles. But
400 miles into the trip, I was ready to rip the foam out of the hole.
Once the swelling started, the presence of the foam became unbearable.
Even though there was no plastic shell underneath, there was still
something! I asked our crew person to see if he could find the Miyata
saddle. It's often quite difficult to find women's products, and I was
almost shocked when he showed up 20 miles later with this wonderful
saddle with an exposed hole. He had found the Miyata. The difference
was immediately noticeable. I probably would have finished the ride
without it, but I wouldn't have been in a good mood for days! The
Miyata is a little harder under the sit bones than the Terry, but
that's not where I was experiencing pain.  Of course the saddle is
different looking and draws lots of comments and sexual innuendos, but
it saved my ride. A year and 12,000 miles later, including PAC Tour
(24 days straight, 140 miles average a day), I still love my Miyata
and won't ride anything else.

Not all women like the wider saddles. Some women find all women's
saddles too wide.  Several women responded to the survey saying they
prefer a man's saddle. Some of these even felt they had wide hip
bones.  For those who use a narrow saddle, finding one that was flat
on top seemed to help with the above mentioned problems.  Others who
liked various women's saddles still found them a little thick in the
middle, even if they were the right width in the back. Someday, maybe
we will see women's saddles in various widths. We must create the
demand though.

Terry does makes a men's version of their Sport saddle. It is narrower
and has a longer nose and hole than the women's model. It also doesn't
say Terry on it anywhere. Instead it is marketed under the initials
TFI. Both this saddle and new models of the Sport have a (politically
correct) simulated leather covering. I know of several men who really
like this saddle, especially when using aero-bars. Women who find the
Terry Sport too wide may want to check this one out.

I've seen Terry saddles change a bit over the past couple of years.
One change is from a lycra cover to a simulated leather cover. Some
women didn't like the feel of the lycra.  (I do.) Another women
noticed after replacing a stolen one with a new one that the foam in
the hole seems to be getting firmer, kind of negating the benefit of
the hole.  Terry does offer a 30 day money back guarantee on their
products, so you can *painlessly* decide if you'd like a Terry saddle
or not.

They have also produced a couple of racing saddles. The first was the
same width in the back as their Sport model, but narrower through the
middle and had titanium rails. I was one of the lucky few to get one
of these. They replaced it with a Flite lookalike with holes drilled
in the nose. I tried one of these and must say for me it was the most
uncomfortable thing I ever came into contact with. But if you can
tolerate a Flite, it might work for you.

Speaking of which, many women do LIKE Flite and other really narrow
saddles. I know that at their cycling camps, Betsy King and Anna
Schwartz get many women on them. They stress the flexibility of the
saddle with it's titanium rails and thin shell. They are very good for
mountain biking where you want to slide off the back of the saddle for
balance where a wide saddle would get in the way. I even know of a few
women who use them for distance cycling. Two women used them on the
PAC Tour I was on, but they had very narrow set hip bones. The other
15 women had women's models of one type or another, including Terry,
Brooks and of course I had a Miyata.

Other suggestions for improved saddle comfort included trying
different shorts. There are a lot of different shorts out there - far
more than saddles and just like saddles, they all fit differently.
The common theme from most women was to stay away from shorts with
seams in the center. This includes seams in the lycra as well as the
chamois (good luck!). On multiday rides, you may want to use different
brands of shorts, since having the seam in the same place day after
day may also cause irritation. Shorts that bunch up in front may cause
also discomfort.

Pearl Izumi and Urbanek make very nice women's shorts. And of course
Terry produces women's shorts. Some have fuller hips, longer legs,
wider elastic leg grippers, etc. I really prefer bib or one piece
suits, since there is no binding elastic at the waist. These are less
convenient for quick bathroom stops, but I prefer the added comfort.
Some women like longer legs, some shorter. Some prefer thick chamois,
some fake, some real. Try on as many different types as you can,
until you find one that fits you the best. Women are even more varied
on their opinions about shorts than on saddles, so just keep trying
new ones until you find the perfect pair for you.

(And while on the subject of saddle comfort, I use a combination of
Desitin (or some other diaper rash ointment) and powder sprinkled
liberally in my shorts to keep myself dry and rash-free.)

I can't stress enough that each woman is different and no one saddle
is perfect for all of us. Just because a local or national racer, or
your friend, or this author uses a particular type of saddle doesn't
mean that it will work for you. Don't let anyone intimidate you into
riding something that is uncomfortable, or changing the angle of your
saddle because it's different. Use the setup that's most comfortable
for you.

Among the saddles recommended by respondents were
Terry Women's (most popular of the survey)
Miyata Pavea (my favorite and a close second in the survey)
TFI (men's version of the Terry Sport)
women's Selle Italia Turbo
Avocet O2 (said to be as comfy as the above Turbo, but lighter)
WaveFlo
Avocet Women's Racing saddle
Viscount saddle
San Marco Regal
Brooks B-17
Brooks Pro
Flite
Terry Racing (like a Flite with holes drilled in the plastic)

(Of course some women swear at saddles that others swear by! Did I
mention that we are all DIFFERENT?)

Specialty women's products are available through The Womyn's Wheel,
1-800-795-RIDE, or hopefully at your local bike shop - just keep
asking them!!

------------------------------

Subject: 7.8  Women's Bikes
From: Lynn Karamanos <karamano@esd.dl.nec.com>

Here's a summary of the info I received on whether or not to
purchase a Terry bike.

1.) First, find a good bike shop, one that will try to find a bike
that fits you, not just sell you what they have in stock.

2.) Ride many different bikes to see what's best for you.  You may be
able to find other bikes that fit just as well as a Terry once
you've made some adjustments/replacements (stem, crank arms, etc.).

3.) If you can't find any other bike to fit you, then a Terry's
worth the extra money.

4.) Except for about two people who sent me email, everyone who's
ridden a Terry has loved it.  Even those two people said they knew
others who loved Terry bikes.  Bottom line:  the fit depends on your
build. Women with long legs/short torso seem to be the ones who like
them, not necessarily just short women.

5.) Also a few people mentioned that there are other road bikes that
are specifically "designed for women" or that fit women well.  The
names mentioned: Fuji, Miyata, Bridgestone, Specialized (Sirrus).
Also, someone mentioned that the same production line in Japan that
makes Terry "proportioned" bikes also makes them under other labels.
(Also one mountain bike was named, Mongoose Hilltopper, and two
hybred bikes, Univega Via Activa and Giant Inova.)

6.) Something to keep in mind if you buy a Terry with a small front
wheel... replacement tubes and tires for smaller wheels could be
more difficult to find and/or more expensive.

7.) In case you're looking at older model Terry's, a few people
mentioned that until a couple years ago, some Terry bikes were
$200-$300 less than they are now.

------------------------------

Subject: 7.9  Bike Rentals
From: Various <people>

Lincoln Guide Service
Lincoln Center
Lincoln, MA
(617) 259-9204
  Rents mountain, road, kids bikes, and trailers.  About 11 miles west of
  Boston, within sight of Lincoln Center commuter rail stop.
 

Team Bicycle Rentals
508 Main
Huntington Beach, CA
(714) 969-5480
  12spd $29/day, MTB $29/day, Santana tandem $69

Gregg's Greenlake
Seattle, WA
 

Second Gear
Seattle, WA
 

New York City Area:
All phone numbers are area code (212).

A West Side Bicycle Store -- 231 W 96th St -- 663 7531
Eddie's Bicycles Shop -- 490 Amsterdam Ave -- 580 2011
Country Cycling Tours -- 140 W 83rd St -- 874 5151
AAA Central Park Bicycle Rentals -- 72nd St/ Central Pk Boathouse -- 861 4137
Midtown Bicycles -- 360 W 47th St -- 581 4500
Sixth Avenue Bicycles -- 546 Avenue of the Americas -- 255 5100
Metro Bicycle -- 1311 Lexington Ave -- 427 4450
Larry and Jeff's Bicycles Plus -- 204 E 85th St -- 794 2201
Gene's 79th Street Discounted Bicycles -- 242 E 79th St -- 249 9218
Peddle Pusher Bicycle Shop -- 1306 2nd Ave -- 288 5594
A Bicycle Discount House -- 332 E 14th St -- 228 4344
City Cycles -- 659 Broadway -- 254 4457

San Francisco

Park Cyclery -- 1865 Haight street (at Stanyan) -- 751-RENT
Start to Finish -- 599 2nd Street at Brannan -- 861-4004

Marin County, CA

Caesars Cyclery -- 29 San Anselmo Ave San Anselmo -- 258-9920
Far-go bike Shop -- 194 Northgate #1 Shopping Center San Rafael -- 472-0253
Ken's Bike and Sport -- 94 Main Street (Downtown Tiburon) -- 435-1683
Wheel Escapes -- 1000 Magnolia Ave Larkspur -- 415-332-0218
 

Austin, TX area

[all stores rent ONLY mountain bikes]
Bicycle Sport Shop -- 1426 Toomey Road -- (512) 477-3472
University Schwinn -- 2901 N. Lamar Blvd -- (512) 474-6696
University Schwinn -- 1542 W. Anderson Ln -- (512) 474-6696
Velotex Inc -- 908-B W 12th St -- (512) 322-9131

Boulder, CO

Boulder Bikesmith, Arapahoe Village, Boulder, (303) 443-1132
Bike'n'Hike, 1136 Main St, Longmont, (303) 772-5105
High Wheeler, 1015 Pearl St., Boulder, (303) 442-5588
   (MTBs, Road and MTB tandems)
Lousiville Cyclery, 1032 S. Boulder Rd, Louisville, (303) 665-6343
Morgul-Bismark, 1221 Pennsylvania Ave, Boulder, (303) 447-1338
Doc's Ski and Sport, Table Mesa Center, Boulder, (303) 499-0963
University Bikes, 9th and Pearl, Boulder, (303) 449-2562
(MTBs and Tandems)
Full Cycle. 1211 13th St., Boulder, (303) 440-7771
High Gear, 1834 N. Main, Longmont, (303) 772-4327
Cutting Edge Sports, 1387 S. Boulder Rd., Louisville, (303) 666-3440

------------------------------

Subject: 7.10  Bike Lockers
From: David H. Wolfskill <david@dhw68k.cts.com>

Many thanks to all who mailed or posted an interest in my quest for
information regarding bike locker vendors; I apologize for the delay in
posting this summary.

My colleague -- thanks to some of that information -- was able to locate
a sufficiently nearby vendor... one of the requirements of which I had
not been aware was that the vendor must be fairly close (to Orange
County, CA) -- to minimize shipping charges.  (I apologize for failing
to determine this issue before posting, and hope that some of the
information about other vendors may be of value to others.)

I figured it would be more useful for me to organize the information,
so I have done so -- at the expense of making an attempt to give credit
for the sources at the point the information is quoted.  (I include a
list of sources at the end of the article.)

First, I received a few pointers to one Ellen Fletcher, such as:

>For a comprehensive treatment of the bicycle parking subject,
>along with a list of vendors & prices, contact Ellen Fletcher
>at cdp!scvba@labrea.stanford.edu (put "ATTN ELLEN" in your
>"To" line.

[I requested clarification regarding addressing a note to Ms. Fletcher,
but have yet to receive it.]

>... Ellen Fletcher, 777-108 San Antonio Road, Palo Alto, CA
>94303-4826, 415-495-8943.

Fortunately, someone sent a list of products & manufacturers,
apparently originally compiled by Ms. Fletcher.  I have taken the
liberty of using that list as a "base document" and have augmented it
with other information I received; entries are alphabetically by
munufacturer's name, since I don't always have product names:

(Manufacturer, {Product Name(s)}, Address, Contact Person, Phone, FAX
 [comments])

American Bicycle Security Co., {BIKE SAFE}, PO Box 7359 Ventura, CA
 93006, Thomas E. Volk, 805-933-3688 & 800-BIKESAF, 805-933-1865.

Bike Lockers Company, {BikeLokr}, PO Box 445 W. Sacramento, CA 95691,,
 916-372-6620, 916-372-3616 [approx. $300/locker, small
 quantities].

Bike-Lokr Mfg. Co., {?}, PO Box 123, Joplin, MO 64802, Jim Snyder,
 417-673-1960/800-462-4049, 417-673-3642 [approx $450/locker,
 which holds 2 bikes; seem to be the lockers used by the
 Washington, DC Metro system]

Bike Security Racks Co., {?}, PO Box 371, Cambridge, MA 02140,,
 617-547-5755, -

Bike Stable Co., Inc., {?}, PO 1402, South Bend, Indiana 46624,,
 219-233-7060, -

Cycle-Safe Inc., 2772-5 Woodlake Rd. SW Wyoming, MI 49509,,
        (616)538-0079 -

David O'Keefe Company, {Super Secure Bike Stor}, P.O. Box 4457, Alamo,
 CA 94507, Thomas & David O'Keefe, 415-637-4440, 415-837-6234.

General Machine company, {Bicycle Locker}, PO Box 405 Vacaville, CA 95696,
 Vitto Accardi, 707-446-2761, -

J.G.Wilson Corp, {Park'n'Lock Bike Garage}, PO Box 599, Norfolk, VA
 23501-0599, J.L.Bevan, 804-545-8341, 804-543-3249.

Sunshine U-LOK Corp., {Secura Bike Locker}, 31316 Via Colinas Suite 102,
 Westlake Village, CA 91362, Doug Devine, 818-707-0110.
 [Specific information near the end of the article -- dhw.]

Turtle Storage Ltd., {?}, P. O. Box 7359, Ventura, CA 93006,,, -

[Ed. note:  The complete posting is available in the archives on
draco.acs.uci.edu.]

------------------------------

Subject: 7.11  Bike computer features

[This table was created from information contained in Performance and Nashbar
catalogs.  In the table below, 'Y' means that the computer has the feature,
'O' means it is an optional feature.]

                 Speed  Ave   Max  Total Trip  Elpsd Clock Auto  Count
                       Speed Speed Miles Miles Time        OnOff Down
Avocet 30          Y           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Avocet 40          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Avocet 50          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Micro       Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Mity        Y           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Mity 2      Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Wireless    Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye Vectra      Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Cateye ATC         Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Ciclo 37           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y           Y     Y
Ciclo IIA          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y                 Y     Y
Performance ITV    Y                 Y     Y     Y           Y     Y
Vetta Innovator    Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta HR1000       Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta C-10         Y           Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta C-15         Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta C-20         Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta Two          Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Vetta Wireless     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y
Specialized        Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     Y     S
   Speed Zone

                 Cadence Wireless Altitude Heart
                                           Rate
Avocet 30
Avocet 40
Avocet 50          O                 Y
Cateye Micro       Y
Cateye Mity
Cateye Mity 2
Cateye Wireless             Y
Cateye Vectra
Cateye ATC
Ciclo 37
Ciclo IIA          O                 O       O
Performance ITV
Vetta Innovator
Vetta HR1000                                 Y
Vetta C-10
Vetta C-15
Vetta C-20         Y
Vetta Two          Y
Vetta Wireless              Y
Specialized
   Speed Zone

------------------------------

Subject: 7.12  Recumbent Bike Info
From: David Wittenberg <dkw@cs.brandeis.edu>
                     (updated by Gary Walsh  gary.walsh@canrem.com)

Here's my standard response to questions about recumbents.  I'd be
happy to answer more specific questions.
 

Here's some info I posted in the fall of 1990.  I think it's still pretty much
up to date.  Changes from the last posting are in []'s.

--David Wittenberg

A few words about recumbent design, and then I'll provide a much
larger list of recumbent manufacturers.

There are three main choices in designing (or buying) a recumbent.
Frame material -- all the ones I know of are either Alumninum or Steel.
Wheelbase --  The front wheel can either be in front of the bottom bracket
(long wheelbase) or behind it (short wheelbase).  You can't have a medium
wheelbase without a lot of extra work because the wheel and the bottom
bracket would interfere with each other.  Long wheelbase is reputed to
be a bit more stable, while short wheelbase machines are often easier to
fit into cars for transport.  Some long wheelbase recumbents fold in
neat ways to fit into a remarkably small space.
Handlebars -- under seat or in front of the rider.  Under seat is probably
a more comfortable position when you get used to it (your hands just hang
at your sides), and may be somewhat safer if you get thrown forward as
there is nothing in front of you.  High handlebars are somewhat faster
as your arms are in front of you instead of at your side, thus reducing
the frontal area.  Some people find them more natural.
[There are long wheelbase bikes with both high and low handlebars.  I don't
know of any short wheelbase, low handlebar recumbents, but there may
be some I don't know of.]

The following updated by Gary Walsh (gary.walsh@canrem.com) July 1992.

There are a couple of interesting publications for recumbents:

International Human Powered Vehicle Association
P.O. Box 51255
Indianapolis, IN  46251  USA

They publish Human Power Magazine and HPV News on all aspects of human
powered transportation (bikes, aircraft, watercraft.)
Dues are US$25/year in the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, and US$30 elsewhere.
 

The Recumbent Bicycle Club of America/Recumbent Cyclist Magazine
PO Box 58755
Renton, WA  98058-1755.
(206) 852-8149

The best source of information on commercially available recumbents.  Read
the reviews in this magazine before you buy your first recumbent.
Subscriptions are US$25 in the U.S.A., and US$30/year elsewhere. Sample
issue and info pack $5.  See especially the buyers guide in issue #8
Oct-Dec 1992.
 
 

Addresses of recumbent manufacturers:

Ace Tool & Engineering  (Infinity Recumbent)  $1 for a flyer
P.O Box 325
292 W. Harrison St.
Mooresville, IN  46158
(317) 831-8798             Long wheelbase, low handlebars, aluminum frames.
                           $499 + $85 for triple crank option.
                           Information $1.

Alternative Bikestyles
P.O. Box 1344
Bonita, CA 91908
Phone (619)421-5118       Maverick $ Renegade LWB recumbents with upright
                          handlebars.  Framesets from $200.  Complete bikes
                          from $395.

Advanced Transportation Products
550 3rd Ave. N.
Edmonds, WA 98020
Phone (206)771-3719       R-20 SWB.  $1350.  Info pack $2.

Angle Lake Cyclery
20840 Pacific Hwy S.
Seattle WA 98198
Phone (206)878-7457      Counterpoint Presto SWB with upright handlebars.
                             Presto SE Tour $1699.
                             Presto SE High Performance $???.
                             Presto CL $1399.
                         Counterpoint Opus IV Tandem
                             Opus CL $2999
                             Opus SE $3599
                         Tri Com Trikes $600-$700.
                         Catalogue $2

Original Car-Cycle Technology
1311 Victoria Ave.
Victoria, B.C.,
Canada V8S 4P4
Phone (604)598-7830      Fully fared commuter trike.  Under development.

DH Recumbents, Inc.
4007-G Bellaire Blvd.
Houston, TX 77025
Phone (713)666-4452      LWB with upright steering.
                         DH1000 $999, DH5000 $1395.

Earth Traveller
1475 Lillian St.
Livermore, CA 94550
Phone (415)449-8312      LWB trike with 2 wheels in back.
                         Information $1.

EcoCycle
Earth Friendly Transportation
5755 NW Fair Oaks Dr.
Corvallis, OR  97330
(503) 753-5178           The Trice is a recumbent tricycle, with
                       two wheels in front.  Touring $1495.
                       Speed model $1595.
                       Also imports Ross recumbent from England.
                       $2 for flyer, $9 for video tape.

Easy Racers, Inc
Box 255H
Freedom, CA  95019
(408) 722-9797         High handlebar, long wheelbase bikes.
                       Easy Racer $2300.  Frameset $1650.
                       Gold Rush Replica, commercial version of
                       the Dupont prize winning Gold Rush (world's
                       fastest bike) also available.
                       $2 for a catalog

Lightning Cycle Dynamics
312 Ninth Street
Lompoc,   CA  93436
(805) 736-0700            P-38 Short Wheelbase, high handlebars.
                          Full fairings are available, and very
                          fast.  $1750.
                          F-40 fully fared version.

Lightning Cycle Inc. (Tailwind)        $1 for a brochure
3819 Rte.  295
Swanton, OH  43558
(419) 826-4056            Steel long wheelbase, underseat steering.
                          Around $1200.
 

Linear Manufacturing Inc.  (Linear)
Route 1, Box 173
Guttenberg,  IA  52052
(319) 252-1637           Long Wheelbase aluminum bike with either
                         high or low handlebars  (You can convert
                         from one to the other.)  $900 to $1200.
                         They sell through dealers, and if you
                         get in touch with them they'll tell you
                         where the nearest dealer is.  Canadians
                         see S.C. Safety Cycle below.

Rans Recumbents
1104 E. Hwy. 40 Bypass
Hays,  KS  67601
(913) 625-6346          Rans Stratus A & B and Nimbus. LWB with
                        upright handlebars.  $995-$1495.

ReBike
P.O Box 725
Boca Raton, FL 33429
Phone (407)750-1304    The ReBike.  A low priced semi-recumbent
                       with upright steering.  New and a big seller.
                       $389.

Rotator
915 Middle Rincon Rd.
Santa Rosa,  CA  95409
(707) 539-4203          Rotator Super-7 Streamliner - LWB with 20" wheels.
                        Rotator Companion Tandem.

Rhoades International
100 Rhoades Lane
Hendersonville, TN 37075
Phone (615)822-2737     4-wheel pedal car. $999 and up.
                        Information $4. Video $19.

Ryan Recumbents, Inc.
1 Chestnut Street
Nashua, NH 03060
(603) 598-1711          Vanguard. Long wheelbase, underseat steering.
                        From $1295.

S.C. Safety Cycle Inc.
1340B St. Paul St.
Kelowna, B.C.
Canada V1Y 2E1          Canadian distributor of the Linear which is
                        sold as "The Alternative."  CAN$1495.

Special Purpose Vehicles
120 Prospect Street
Somerville, MA 02143
(617) 625-9030

Thebis International
110-2031 Malaview Ave.
Sidney, B.C.
Canada V8L 3X9
Phone (604)656-1237
1-800-667-6801         Thebis 201 Touring Trike. Two wheels in back.
                       $2990.

Trailmate
2359 Trailmate Dr.
Sarasota FL 34243
Phone (813)755-5511     Fun Cycle and Bannana Peel trikes. $399.

Turner Enterprises
P.O.Box 36158
Los Angeles, CA 90036
Phone (383)-0030       SWB with underseat steering.
                       Laid Back "E" frame kit $375.
                       LB-2000  $1500.  Frameset $899.

Zzip Designs
P.O. Box 14
Davenport, CA 95017
Phone (408)425-8650    Manufacturer of fairings for many of the
                       bikes listed above.

Cyclopedia
P.O. Box 884
Adrian, MI 49221
1-800-678-1021         Good source for parts for builders.
----------------
European Recumbents

Leitra APS
PO Box 64 DK-2750
Ballerup, Denmark      Leitra M2 fully fared commuter trike.
                       3400 DM for the trike.
                       5845 DM for complete vehicle with accessories.

Bas Ten Brinke
Postbus 10075
1301 Almere,
Netherlands            Flevo SWB front wheel drive.

Fateba, Bachman & Co.
Rosenstr. 9,
8400 Winterthur
Switzerland            Fateba Winglet L1  LWB.

Kincycle
Miles Kingsbury
Lane End Road, Sands,
High Wycombe, Bucks
HP12 4JQ England       The Kingcycle SWB.

M5
Bram Moens
Waalstraat 41,
NL-4335 KL
Middleburg, Netherlands.   M5 SWB.

Neatwork
The Lees Stables
Coldstream, Berwickshire,
Scotland TD12-4NN          Dealer for Kingcycle SWB and Radius
                           Peer Gynt LWB.

Radius-Spezialrader,
Frie-Vendt-Str 16, D-4400
Munster, Germany RFA       Peer Gynt LWB with underseat steering.

More Recumbent Bike Info  (Gary Walsh  gary.walsh@canrem.com)

[This has been copied from a flyer written by Robert Bryant of the
Recumbent Cyclist Magazine.  He has given me permission to submit
it for the FAQ. - Gary]

          Have You Ever Considered a RECUMBENT BICYCLE?

WHY RECUMBENT BICYCLES?
     There are many reasons to consider a recumbent.  First and foremost
is comfort.  When you ride a recumbent bicycle you will no longer have
an aching back, stiff neck, numb wrists or a sore a sore bottom.  You
will sit in a relaxed easy-chair position.  You will be able to ride
longer with less fatigue and arrive at your destination feeling
refreshed.  The recumbent position offerd you a great view of the
countryside. While seated you will look straight ahead. This allows your
lungs and chest more open and free breathing.  Recumbents are very
versatile machines.  They can be used for a wide range of applications:
recreational/sport riding, for the daily commute, a fast double century
and they are great for long distance touring.

RECUMBENT PERFORMANCE
     Recumbents hold all of the human-powered speed records.  This is
because they are aerodynamically superior to conventional bicycles;
less frontal area means less wind resistance.  The Lightning F-40
currently holds the Race Across America speed record of five days and
one hour.  Gardner Martin's Easy Racer Gold Rush, ridden by Fast Freddie
Markham, was the winner of the Dupont Prize for breaking 65mph.  You
can currently buy production versions of these bicycles.  Fairings for
street use are common and optional equipment on most commercially built
models.  They protect you from rain, cold and wind, with up to a 30%
reduction in drag.  Commercially available recumbents are not always
faster than conventional bicycles.  It depends mainly on the individual
rider.  Your best bet is to do you homework and if your goal is
performance and speed, be sure that you look for a recumbent designed
for this purpose.

COMMONLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT RECUMBENT BICYCLES
1) Do recumbents climb hills well?  Yes they do, although climbing on a
recumbent requires a different technique, you must gear down and spin.
Maintaining an efficient spin takes some practice & conditioning, once
mastered, it takes less physical effort to climb hills.  Depending on
your riding style, your speeds can range from slowwer to even faster
than on a conventional bicycle.
2) Can recumbents be seen in traffic?  Recumbents with a higher seating
position may be better suited for riding in traffic than some of the
low-slung designs.  The use of use of proper safety devices such as
safety flags and reflective devices is recommended.  Recumbent bicycles
are different, futuristic and they get noticed.  Many riders feel they
get more respect from motorists while on their recumbents.
3) Are they safe?  Recumbent's are safer than a conventional bicycle.
Due to the low centre of gravity, they stop faster.  Brakes can be
evenly applied to both wheels simultaneously providing more traction
without throwing the rider over the handlebars.  In crash situations,
the rider goes down to the side absorbing the impact with the hip and
leg rather than flying over the handlebars and absorbing the impact on
your head and shoulder.  Straight ahead vision is also better on a
recumbent, however, rear view mirrors are necessary for proper
rearward
vision.

RECUMBENT PAST HISTORY
     Why are recumbents such a rare sight?  Space age technology?  New
type of bicycle?  Not really, recumbent bicycles actually go back as
far as the mid to late 1800's with the Macmillan Velocopede and the
Challand Recumbent.  In the 1930's, a series of events took place that
changed bicycling history.  A French second category professional
track cyclist named Francois Faure rode the Velocar, a two wheeled
recumbent bicycle designed and built by Charles Mochet, to
record-shattering speeds, breaking both the mile and kilometre records
of the day.  This created a storm of controversy within the U.C.I.
(United Cycliste International), bicycle rating's governing body.  The
debate centred on whether the Velocar was a bicycle and were these
records legal?  In 1934 they ruled against the Mochet-Faure record,
banning recumbent bicycles and aerodynamic devices from racing.  Were
U.C.I. members worried that the recumbent bicycle would displace the
conventional design?  Did they realize this would freeze bicycle and
human-powered vehicle development for the next forty years?  This is
why bicycles of taday look very similar to the Starkey and Sutton
Safety (upright/conventional) of 1885.  Just think where bicycle
technology would be today if the U.C.I. decision had gone the opposite
way.

MODERN RECUMBENT HISTORY
     Recumbent development was fairly quiet until the late 1960's.  Dan
Henry received some media attention for his long wheelbase design in
1968.  In the early 1970's, the human-powered revolution was starting up
on both the U.S. east coast by David Gordon, designer of the Avatar, and
on the west coast by Chester Kyle.  These pioneers recognized the need
for further development of human-powered vehicles. In the late 1970's
and early 1980's, this lead to the first commercial recumbent bicycle
designs such as the Avatar, Easy Racer and Hypercycle.  In 1990, the
Recumbent Bicycle Club of America was founded by Dick Ryan who currently
manufactures the Ryan Vanguard and was also involved with the Avatar
project in the early 1980's.  In 1988 recumbent promoter Robert Bryant
got his start writing "Recumbent Ramblings," a column for "HPV News."
In the summer of 1990, Robert founded the "Recumbent Cyclist Magazine,"
and in a short two years, RCM has become the source for recumbent bicyle
information in the world today.

SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION
 

RECUMBENT CYCLIST MAGAZINE
17560-B6-140th Ave SE, Ste 341
Renton WA 98058

__$2 Info-Pak/recumbent manufacturer list
__$5 Current sample issue with info-pak/list
__$20 USA Bulk Mail Subscription
__$25 USA First Class Mail Subscription Rush Service
__$30 Canada Air Mail
__$35 Worldwide Air Mail (USA funds) (anywhere outside USA/CAN)
__$50 Junior Supporter (includes 3 copies of each issue, mailed first
    class
__$100 RBCA Supporter (includes 10 copies of each issue mailed Priority)
 

BACK ISSUE ORDERING INFO

-Back issues are mailed 3rd class postage. (allow 4 weeks for delivery.)
-First Class Mail/Rush Service - add $.50 per issue.
-Canadian Air Mail/Rush Service - add $1.00 per issue.
-Worldwide Air Mail - add $2.00 per issue.
-Super-Rush Service?  We can do FEDEX overnight C.O.D.

$4.00  __RC#2  Flevo & CSPC "Poor Man's Composite"
$4.00  __RC#3  DH5000 LWB Road Test
$4.00  __RC#4  Ryan Vanguard Road Test/F-40/Flevo
$4.00  __RC#5  Linear LWB Road Test/Omega HPV/HPV Design Info
$4.50  __RC#6  Easy Racer Road Test
$4.50  __RC#7  Lightning P-38 Road Test
$4.50  __RC#8  1992 Recumbent Buyers Guide
$4.50  __RC#9  A.T.P. R-20 SWB Road Test
$4.50  __RC#10 Thebis Trike Road Test
$4.50  __RC#11 Counterpoint Presto Road Test
$4.50  __RC#12 Rans Road Test (available 9/92)
$4.50  __RC#13 Trice Road Test (Available 11/92)
$4.50  __RC#14 (Available 1/93)
$4.50  __RC#14 (Available 3/93)
$4.50  __RC#15 (Available 5/93)

------------------------------

Subject: 7.13  Buying a Bike

One thing to decide before buying a bike is what type to buy.  Here's a
brief list:

  Road bike    Once known as a "ten-speed", most are now 12 or 14 (or even
               16) speed.  There are several sub-types: racing, sport,
               and touring, the difference mostly in frame geometry.

  ATB          All-terrain bike, also known as mountain bike.  Great for
               riding in the dirt, these bikes usually have fat, knobby
               tires for traction in dirt and gravel.

  Hybrid       A bike that borrows from road bikes and ATBs.  For example,
               they have the light frame and 700c wheels of road bikes and
               fat knobby tires, triple cranks, wide-range derailleurs,
               flat handlebars and cantilever brakes from mountain bikes.
 

Bike buying hints

When you're ready to buy a bike, you should first decide what you want
to use the bike for.  Do you want to race?  Do you want to pedal along
leisurely?  Do you want to ride in the dirt?

Next, you should decide on a price range.  Plan to spend at least
$350 for a decent quality bike.

Now find a good bike shop.  Ask friends who bike.  Ask us here on the
net.  Chances are, someone here lives in your area and can recommend
a shop.

Now that you are ready to look for a bike, visit the shop(s) you have
selected.  Test ride several bikes in your price range.  How does it
feel?  Does it fit you?  How does it shift?  Does it have the features
you are looking for?  How do the shop personnel treat you?  Remember
that the shop gets the bike disassembled and has to spend a couple of
hours putting it together and adjusting things, so look for sloppy
work (If you see some, you may want to try another shop).  You might
want to try a bike above your price range to see what the differences
are (ask the salesperson).

Ask lots of questions - pick the salesperson's brain.  If you don't
ask questions, they may recommend a bike that's not quite right
for you.  Ask about places to ride, clubs, how to take care of your
bike, warranties, etc.  Good shops will have knowledgable people
who can answer your questions.  Some shops have free or low-cost
classes on bike maintenance; go and learn about how to fix a flat,
adjust the brakes and derailleurs, overhaul your bike, etc.
Ask your questions here - there are lots of people here just waiting
for an excuse to post!

Make sure that the bike fits you.  If you don't, you may find that
you'll be sore in places you never knew could be so sore.  For road
bikes, you should be able to straddle the top tube with your feet flat
on the ground and still have about 1 inch of clearance.  For mountain
bikes, give yourself at least 2-3 inches of clearance.  You may need
a longer or shorter stem or cranks depending on your build - most
bikes are setup for "average" bodies.  The bike shop can help you
with adjustments to the handlebars and seat.

Now that you've decided on a bike, you need some accessories.  You
should consider buying

   a helmet
   a frame pump
   a tube repair kit
   tire levers (plastic)
   a pressure gauge
   a seat pack (for repair kit, wallet, keys, etc)
   gloves
   a water bottle and cage
   a lock
 
The shop can help you select these items and install them on your bike.
 

------------------------------

Subject: 8  Tech

------------------------------

Subject: 8.1  Technical Support Numbers
From: Joshua Putnam <Joshua_Putnam@happy-man.com>

[This list is now in the ftp archives as it is too long to put here]

------------------------------

Subject: 8.2  Ball Bearing Grades
From: Bill Codding <peda@simplicity.Stanford.EDU>,
      Harry Phinney <harry@hpcvlx.cv.hp.com>

Following is a description of the different grades of ball bearings.
The grade specifies the sphericity of the balls in millionths of an inch.
Thus, grade 25 are round to 25/10^6, while grade 1000 are good to 1/1000
(i.e.  not all that round, but probably good enough for our uses).

   Grade 25: the highest quality normally available, aka
      "Campagnolo quality": hardened all the way through, best
      alloys, coatings, roundness, and durability.  Evidently,
      a recent bottom-bracket overhaul article in "Bicycling Plus
      Mountain Bike" magazine recommended these.  Campy's tech reps
      claim that the bearings in a set (usually in a little paper bag)
      are matched.  One should not mix bearings from different sets.

   Grade 200: mid-range

   Grade 1000: seems to be the lowest, may only be surface
      hardened.

Good sources for ball bearings:

   Your local bike shop (make sure you're getting the grade you want)
   Bike Parts Pacific
   Bike Nashbar  1-800-NASHBAR    ($1-$3 per 100 Grade 25)
   The Third Hand 1-916-926-2600  ($4-$7 per 100 Grade 25)

------------------------------

Subject: 8.3  SIS Cable Info
From: Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

After Joe Gorin described the SIS "non-compressive" cable housing to
me I got myself a sample to understand what the difference is.  I
believe "non-compressive" is a misnomer.  This cable housing is NOT
non-compressive but rather a constant length housing.  As far as I can
determine, and from reports from bike shops, this housing should not
be used for brakes because it is relatively weak in compression, the
principal stress for brake housing.

SIS housing is made of 18 strands of 0.5mm diameter round spring steel
wire wrapped in a 100mm period helix around a 2.5mm plastic tube.  The
assembly is held together by a 5mm OD plastic housing to make a
relatively stiff cable housing.  Because the structural wires lie in a
helix, the housing length remains constant when bent in a curve.  Each
strand of the housing lies both on the inside and outside of the curve
so on the average the wire path length remains constant, as does the
housing centerline where the control cable resides.  Hence, no length
change.  A brake cable housing, in contrast, changes length with
curvature because only the inside of the curve remains at constant
length while the outside (and centerline) expands.

Shimano recommends this cable only for shift control but makes no
special effort to warn against the danger of its use for brakes.  It
should not be used for anything other than shift cables because SIS
housing cannot safely withstand compression.  Its wires stand on end
and have no compressive strength without the stiff plastic housing
that holds them together.  They aren't even curved wires, so they
splay out when the outer shield is removed.  Under continuous high
load of braking, the plastic outer housing can burst leaving no
support.  Besides, in its current design it is only half as flexible
as brake cable because its outer shell is made of structurally stiff
plastic unlike the brake cable housing that uses a soft vinyl coating.

Because brake cables transmit force rather than position, SIS cable,
even if safe, would have no benefit.  In contrast, with handlebar
controls to give precise shift positioning, SIS housing can offer some
advantage since the cable must move though steering angles.  SIS
housing has no benefit for downtube attached shifters because the
cable bends do not change.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.4  Milk Jug Mud Flaps
From: Chuck Tryon <bilbo@bisco.kodak.com>

  Actually, I have used plastic like this (or in my case, some
  red plastic from a cheap note book cover -- it's heavier) to extend the
  bottom (rear) end of the front fender.  The Zephals are good, but they
  don't stop the splash from where the tire hits the road from getting on my
  feet.  What I did was cut a small triangle about 3in (~7cm) wide by 6in
  (~15cm) long, cut a hole in the top of it and the bottom end of the fender,
  and use a pop-rivet (with washers to prevent tear out) to attach it.  On a
  road bike, it should be end up being within a few inches of the road.  ATB's
  will need more clearance, so this won't work well off road.

        |   |
        |   |
       /| o |\   <----- rivet with washer on inside
      | \___/ |
      /       \   <---- flap fits inside of the fender, and follows the
     |         |        curve, which gives it some stiffness.
     |         |
     |         |
     \_________/
         | |
         | |     <----- bottom of tire
         \_/
 
------------------------------

Subject: 8.5  Lubricating Chains

Lubricating chains is a somewhat religious issue.  Some advocate oil,
some Teflon-base lubricants, some paraffin wax.  The net majority favors
a lubricant that does not leave an oily coating on the chain that can
attract dirt, which will hasten chain/chainring/freewheel sprocket wear.

If you want to use paraffin wax, make sure you melt the wax in a double
boiler!  Failure to do so can lead to a fire.  You can use a coffee
can in a pan of boiling water if you don't want to mess up good cookware.
After the wax has melted, put the chain in the wax and simmer for 10
minutes or so.  Remove the chain, hang it up, and wipe the excess wax
off.  Let it cool and reinstall on your bike.

When using a liquid lubricant, you want to get the lube onto the pins
inside the rollers on the chains, not on the outside where it does little
good.  Oilers with the narrow tubes are good for this because you can put
the lube where you want it.  Work the oil into the chain after applying
it, wipe the chain off, and reinstall on your bike.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.6  Wear and Gear Slippage
From: Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

There seems to be a lot of speculation on what makes chains wear and
how to lubricate a chain.  There are a number of ways to take care of
a chain.  Of these, some traditional methods are the most damaging to
chain life and others work to prolong life.

As was mentioned on the net, chains don't stretch in the sense that
the metal elongates, but the parts wear.  Wear in the pins and sleeves
change the length of the chain as the pins fit more loosely.  The wear
arises primarily from road grit that enters the chain when it is
oiled.  Grit on the outside of a chain is the ugly black stuff that
gets on your leg.  This dirt has no effect on chain function because
it can't get inside to do damage.  Only when a dirty chain is oiled
does this grit get to the place where it can cause damage.  Note that
commercial abrasive grinding paste is made of oil and silicon dioxide
(sand) and silicon carbide (sand).  You couldn't do a better job if
you tried to destroy a chain than to oil a road dirt (previously
oiled) encrusted chain.

Primitive rule #1:  Never oil a chain on the bike.

This means you should clean the grit off the chain before oiling it.
Because this is essentially impossible without submerging the chain in
a solvent bath (kerosene or commercial solvent), you must take the
chain off the bike.  The fine grit can only be removed from the
interior of the chain in liquid suspension.  A good example of this
can be seen by using a Vetta (on the bike) chain cleaner and
subsequently cleaning the same chain in a solvent bath.  The best grit
remains until last and there's plenty of it.  Of course it isn't
always possible to remove a chain and there are times (in the rain)
when a chain screams for oil when a good cleaning is not an option.

Removing the solvent from the chain after the rinse is important.
Compressed air is not readily available in the household nor is a
centrifuge.  You can go outdoors and sling the chain around.  This
works best if the chain is a closed loop.  You don't have to press the
pin completely in for this.  The other way is to evaporate it.  You
should probably avoid accelerated drying methods because they could be
explosive.

The hot gear lube method works but it also acts as efficient fly
paper, collecting plenty of grime between cogs.  Motor oil is good but
motorcycle chain lubricants are better because they have volatile
solvents that allow good penetration for their relatively viscous
lubricant.  Paraffin works poorly because it is not mobile and cannot
replenish the bearing surface once it has been displaced.

Sedisport

The Sedisport chain, although the strongest and one of the lightest
chains, achieves its light weight at the expense of durability.  This
chain has no sleeve that on most roller chains supports the roller on
its outside and furnishes the bearing for the pin on the inside.
Normally the inside of the sleeve is well protected against lubricant
depletion because both ends are covered by closely fitting side
plates.  In the Sedisport there is no sleeve and the formed side
plates support the roller and pin with a substantial central gap.  In
the wet, lubricant is quickly washed out of pin and roller and the
inferior bearing for the pin and roller often gall and bind.  In good
weather this may not be a problem.  Because this chain has feet of
clay in the wet, Sedis re-introduced their earlier 5 element
conventional chain, calling it a "chain for all seasons".

The lightweight Regina chain goes one step farther and omits the pin,
leaving the side plates to hinge directly on the sleeve.  This gives
them a knife edge bearing area that galls at the slightest lube
depletion.

Chain Life

This is almost entirely a cleanliness and lubrication question rather
than a load problem.  The effect of load variations is insignificant
when compared to the lube and grit effects for bicycles.  The primary
chains on motorcycles are operated under clean conditions and last
years while the exposed rear chains must be replaced often.

The only way to test whether a chain is worn is by measurement.  The
chain has a half inch pitch and, when new, has a pin at exactly every
half inch.  As the pins and sleeves wear this spacing increases and
becomes damaging to sprockets.  When the chain pitch grows over one
half percent it is time for a new chain.  At one percent chainring
damage progresses rapidly.  By holding a ruler along the chain on your
bike, align an inch mark with a pin and see how far off the mark the
pin is at twelve inches.  An eighth of an inch (0.125) is the one
percent limit while more than a sixteenth is a prudent time to get a
new chain.

Skipping Chain

When you put on a new chain, its pitch is exactly one half inch.  A
sprocket, worn by a longer pitch (worn) chain, has hooked teeth.  The
hooked profile is formed by the rollers of a worn chain as they exit
the sprocket under load.  Rollers of a new chain with correct pitch
exit under no load because the load is transferred to the next roller
before disengagement.  However, with hooked sprockets the new chain
cannot engage under load because the pitch is too small to get over
the hook and into the pocket.  These differences are only a few
thousandths of an inch but that is enough to prevent engagement when
the previous roller is fully engaged.

As a chain wears it concentrates more of its load on the last tooth of
a sprocket before disengagement because its pitch no longer matches
the pitch of the sprocket.  This effect sometimes breaks off sprocket
teeth.  The load concentration on the sprocket also accelerates wear
and is another reason to replace a chain at 1/16th inch wear.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.7  Adjusting Chain Length
From: Bob Fishell <spike@cbnewsd.att.com>

For all Shimano SIS and Hyperglide systems, the chain is sized by shifting to
the smallest rear cog and the largest front sprocket, then sizing the
chain so that the derailleur pulleys are on a vertical line, or as close
as you can get to it.  Note that this will result in the same chain length
for any freewheel within the capacity of the derailleur, so it usually is
not necessary to re-size the chain for a different cogset with these systems.

The other rule I've used (friction systems) involves shifting to the largest
chainring and the largest rear cog, then sizing the chain so that the pulleys
are at a 45 degree angle to the ground.

The rules probably vary from derailleur to derailleur.  In general,
you may use the capacity of the rear derailleur cage as a guideline. You
want the chain short enough so the cage can take up the slack in the
smallest combination of chainwheel and rear cog you will use. The chain
must also be long enough so that the cage still has some travel in the
largest combination you will use.

For example, if you have a 42x52 crank and a 13x21 freewheel, the smallest
combination you would use would be a 42/14 (assuming you don't use the
diagonal). If the cage can take up the slack in this combo, it's short enough.
If the cage has spring left when you are in the 52/19 combo (again, you are
not using the diagonal), it's long enough.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.8  Hyperglide chains
From: Mark Chandler <chandler@wc.novell.com>

For those of you that are tired of dealing with Shimano's
chains with the special pins, I've found that the following
chains work well with Shimano Hyperglide gearing systems:

DID SuperShift
Sedis ATB
Union 800
Union 915

The SuperShift is probably the best performer of the bunch,
followed by the ATB and 915.  The 800 doesn't do too well
with narrow cogsets (i.e., 8-speeds) because the raised
elliptical bumps on the side-plates tend to rub on the adjacent
cogs.

I've also found that these chains work well on SunTour systems.
The 915, however, works better on PowerFlo cogs than it does
on regular (AccuShift) cogs (where it tends to slip when shifting).

------------------------------

Subject: 8.9  Bottom Bracket Info
From: Jobst Brandt  <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

The four kinds of BB threads in common use today are Italian, British,
French, and Swiss, possibly in that order of occurrence.

           Diameter   Pitch    Right Left Cup
           --------   -----    ----- -----
Italian    36mm   x   24F tpi  right right        tpi (threads per inch)
British    1.370" x   24F tpi  left  right
French     35mm   x   1mm      right right
Swiss      35mm   x   1mm      left  right

Unless there is something wrong with the right hand cup it should not be
removed but should be wiped clean and greased from the left side.  The
thread type is usually marked on the face of both left and right cups.
Swiss threads are rare but if you have one it is good to know before
attempting removal.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.10  Crank noises
From: Phil Etheridge <phil@massey.ac.nz>

I've had the creaky crank problem on every bike I've owned which has
had cotterless cranks.  Until now, I've never known a good solution to
the problem.

One suggestion I had was to replace the crank, but that wasn't
something I was prepared to do on 1 month old bike under warranty.
The shop mechanic spent half an hour with me and my bike sorting it
out.  Tightening the crank bolts and pedal spindle (i.e. onto the
crank) didn't help (as Jobst will tell you).

Removing each crank, smearing the spindle with grease and replacing
the crank eliminated most of the noise.  Removing each pedal, smearing
grease on the thread and replacing it got rid of the rest of the
noise.

Greasing the pedal threads is a new one on me, but it makes a lot of
sense, since they are steel and the crank aluminum.  I thought it was
worth relating this story, as creaky cranks seems to be quite a common
problem.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.11  Cracking/Breaking Cranks
From: Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

[Ed note:  Yes, another disputed issue is contained here - whether to
lube the crank tapers before installing the crankarms.  This has
popped up from time to time on rec.bicycles, and has never been
resolved one way or the other.  The text here is Jobst's viewpoint.]

Cranks break because they are aluminum and because they have high
stress at various points.  The worst of these points are at the
pedal eye and where the spider fingers join the right crank.  The
pedal eye is a bad place because the joint is incorrectly designed,
but since it is a standard, it may not be changed since it seems to
work.  This joint always moves and causes fretting corrosion and
cracks.  These cracks propagate into the crank and cause failure.
A better joint here would be a 45 degree taper instead of a flat
shoulder at the end of the pedal thread.

The thin web between the spider and crank, another common crack
origin on cranks like the Campagnolo Record, was nicely redesigned
in the C-Record crank, but to make up for that the C-Record is
otherwise weaker than the Record version.  My experience is that
they break in about 1500 miles because the pedal eye has a smaller
cross section than the Record model, but maybe the alloy is poorer
too.  I have subsequently used Dura Ace cranks for more than two
years with no failure yet.  I don't believe in eternal life here
either.

Aluminum has no safe fatigue limit but just gets progressively safer
as stress is reduced.  In contrast, steel has a threshold below
which failures cease.  Therein lies some of the problem.

As for cranks loosening, one can view the junction between spindle
and crank in an exaggerated elastic model where the spindle is made
of plastic and the crank of Rubbermaid household rubber.  The crank,
once properly installed and the retaining bolt in place, squirms on
the square taper when under torque.  During these deformations the
crank can move only in one direction because the bolt prevents it
from coming off.  The crank always slides farther up the taper.
Proof that the crank squirms is given by the fretting rouge always
found on the spindle, whether lubricated or not, when a crank is
pulled off after substantial use.

As was mentioned by various observers, the left crank bolt is
usually looser, after use, than the right one and this could be
anticipated because the two cranks differ in their loading.  This
does not mean the left crank is looser.  Actually it is tighter,
only the bolt is looser.  The left crank is more heavily loaded
because it experiences offset twist from the pedal at the same time
it transmits torque to the spindle.  The right crank, being
connected to the chain, experiences either spindle torque from the
left pedal or twist from the right pedal but not torque and twist at
the same time.

In this squirming mode, cranks wander away from the retaining bolt
and leave it loose after the first hard workout (for riders of more
than 150 lbs).  The bolts should NOT be re-tightened because they
were correctly tight when installed.  Cranks have been split in half
from repeated follow-up tightening, especially left cranks.  The
spindle should be lubricated before installing cranks.  A wipe of a
mechanic's finger is adequate since this is to prevent galling in
the interface.  To prevent losing a loose crank bolt, the "dust"
cover that is in fact the lock cap should be installed.

Those who have had a crank spindle break, can attest to the greater
stress on the left side because this is the end that always breaks
from fatigue.  A fatigue crack generally has a crystalline
appearance and usually takes enough time to develop that the face of
the fracture oxidizes so that only the final break is clean when
inspected.  Because a notch acts to concentrate stress, the
advancing crack amplifies this effect and accelerates the advance
once the crack has initiated.

I have heard of instructions to not lubricate spindles before
installing cranks but I have never been able to find it in any
manufacturer's printed material.  Although I have broken many
Campagnolo cranks, none has ever failed at the spindle.  I am
certain that the standard machine practice of lubricating a taper
fit has no ill effects.  I have also never had a crank come loose
nor have I re-tightened one once installed.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.12  Biopace chainrings

Biopace chainrings have fallen into disfavor in recent years.  They
are hard to "pedal in circles".  The early Biopace chainrings were
designed for cadences of around 50-70 rpm, while most recommend a
cadence of 80-100 rpm.  Newer Biopace chainrings are less elliptical,
but the general consensus is to (if you are buying a new bike) get the
dealer to change the chainrings to round ones.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.13  Snakebite flats

Snakebite flats are usually caused by the tire and tube being pinched
between the road and the rim, causing two small holes in the tube that
look like a snakebite.  The usual causes are underinflation, too
narrow a tire for your weight, or hitting something (rock, pothole)
while having your full weight on the tire.

The obvious solutions are to make sure your tires are inflated properly,
use a larger size tire if you weigh a lot, and either avoid rocks and
potholes or stand up with your knees and elbows flexed (to act like shock
absorbers) when you go over them.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.14  Blown Tubes
From: Tom Reingold <tr@samadams.princeton.edu>

Charles E Newman writes:

$   Something really weird happened at 12:11 AM. My bike blew a
$ tire while just sitting parked in my room. I was awakened by a noise
$ that scared the livin ^&$% out of me. I ran in and found that all the
$ air was rushing out of my tire. How could something like happen in the
$ middle of the night when the bike isn't even being ridden? I  have
$ heard of it happening when the bike is being ridden but not when it is
$ parked.

This happened because a bit of your inner tube was pinched between your
tire bead and your rim.  Sometimes it takes a while for the inner tube
to creap out from under the tire.  Once it does that, it has nothing to
keep the air pressure in, so it blows out.  Yes, it's scary.  I've had
it happen in the room where I was sleeping.

To prevent this, inflate the tire to about 20 psi and move the tire
left and right, making sure no part of the inner tube is pinched.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.15  Mounting Tires
From: Douglas Gurr <dgurr@daimi.aau.dk>

A request comes in for tyre mounting tricks. I suspect that this ought to be
part of the FAQ list. However in lieu of this, I offer the way it was taught
to me. Apologies to those for whom this is old hat, and also for the paucity
of my verbal explanations. Pictures would help but, as always, the best bet
is to find someone to show you.

First of all, the easy bit:

1) Remove the outer tyre bead from the rim. Leave the inner bead.
   Handy hint. If after placing the first tyre lever you
   are unable to fit another in because the tension in the bead is too great
   then relax the first, slip the second in and use both together.
2) Pull out the tube finishing at the valve.
3) Inspect the tube, find the puncture and repair it.

Now an important bit:

4) Check tyre for thorns, bits of glass etc - especially at the point where
   the hole in the tube was found.

and now a clever bit:

5) Inflate the tube a _minimal_ amount, i.e. just sufficient for it to
   hold its shape. Too much inflation and it won't fit inside the tyre.
   Too little (including none at all) and you are likely to pinch it.

More important bits:

6) Fit the tube back inside the tyre. Many people like to cover the tube in
   copious quantities of talcum powder first. This helps to lubricate
   the tyre/tube interface as is of particular importance in high pressure
   tyres.
7) Seat the tyre and tube over the centre of the rim.
8) Begin replacing the outer bead by hand. Start about 90 degrees away from
   the valve and work towards it. After you have safely passed the valve,
   shove it into the tyre (away from the rim) to ensure that you have
   not trapped the tube around the valve beneath the tyre wall.

Finally the _really_ clever bit:

9) When you reach the point at which you can no longer proceed by hand,
   slightly _deflate_ the tube and try again. Repeat this process until
   either the tyre is completely on (in which case congratulations)
   or the tube is completely deflated. In the latter case, you will have
   to resort to using tyre levers and your mileage may vary. Take care.

and the last important check:

10) Go round the entire wheel, pinching the tyre in with your fingers
    to check that there is no tube trapped beneath the rim. If you
    have trapped the tube, deduct ten marks and go back to step one.
    Otherwise ....

11) Replace wheel and reinflate.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.16  More Flats on Rear Tires
From: Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

Most sharp obstacles, except tetrahedral glass slivers and puncture vine,
more often get stuck in the rear tire than in the front tire.  The reason
is that the front tire upsets the sharp object just in time for the rear
tire to catch it head-on.

This front to rear effect is also true for motor vehicles.  Nails lying
on the road seldom enter front tires.  When dropped on the road by a
moving vehicle, the nail slides down the road aligning itself pointing
toward traffic because it tends to roll around until it is head first.
The tire rolls over it and tilts it up so that if the speed is ideal,
the rear tire catches it upright.  I once got a flat from a one inch
diameter steel washer that the rear tire struck on edge after the front
tire flipped it up.

When it is wet glass can stick to the tire even in the flat orientation
and thereby get a second chance when it comes around again.  To add to
this feature, glass cuts far more easily when wet as those who have cut
rubber tubing in chemistry class may remember.  A wet razor blade cuts
latex rubber tubing in a single slice while a dry blade only makes a
nick.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.17  What holds the rim off the ground?
From: Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

> What forces keep the rim of a wheel with pneumatic tires off the
> ground. It obviously can't be the air pressure because that's acting
> from top as well as from below.

As has been pointed out, the casing walls pull on the rim (or its
equivalent) and thereby support the load.  The casing leaves the rim
at about a 45 degree angle, and being essentially a circular cross
section, it is in contact with the rim over its inner quarter circle.
At least this is a good representative model.  The visualization may
be simpler if a tubular tire is considered.  It makes no difference
whether the tire is held on by glue or is otherwise attaches to the
rim such as a clincher is.  Either way the tire is attached to the
rim, a relatively rigid structure.

Under load, in the ground contact zone, the tire bulges so that two
effects reduce the downward pull (increase the net upward force) of
the casing.  First, the most obvious one is that the casing pulls more
to the sides than downward (than it did in its unloaded condition);
the second is that the side wall tension is reduced.  The reduction
arises from the relationship that unit casing tension is equivalent to
inflation pressure times the radius of curvature divided by pi.  As
the curvature reduces when the tire bulges out, the casing tension
decreases correspondingly.  The inflated tire supports the rim
primarily by these two effects.

Tire pressure changes imperceptibly when the tire is loaded because
the volume does not change appreciably.  Besides, the volume change is
insignificant in small in comparison to the volume change the air has
undergone when being compressed into the tire.  In that respect, it
takes several strokes of a frame pump to increase the pressure of a
tire from 100 psi to 101.  The air has a low spring constant that acts
like a long soft spring that has been preloaded over a long stroke.
Small deflections do not change its force materially.  For convenience
car and truck tires are regularly inflated to their proper pressure
before being mounted on the vehicle.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.18  Anodized vs. Non-anodized Rims
From: Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

There are several kinds of dark coatings sold on rims.  Each suggests that
added strength is achieved by this surface treatment while in fact no useful
effects other than aesthetic results are achieved.  The colored rims just
cost more as do the cosmetically anodized ones.  The hard anodized rims do
not get stronger even though they have a hard crust.  The anodized crust is
brittle and porous and crazes around spoke holes when the sockets are riveted
into the rim.  These cracks grow and ultimately cause break-outs if the
wheel is subjected to moderate loads over time.

There is substantial data on this and shops like Wheelsmith, that build many
wheels, can tell you that for instance, no MA-2 rims have cracked while MA-40
rims fail often.  These are otherwise identical rims.

Hard anodizing is also a thermal and electrical insulator.  Because heat is
generated in the brake pads and not the rim, braking energy must cross the
interface to be dissipated in the rim.  Anodizing, although relatively thin,
impedes this heat transfer and reduces braking efficiency by overheating the
brake pad surfaces.  Fortunately, in wet weather, road grit wears off the
sidewall anodizing and leaves a messy looking rim with better braking.

Anodizing has nothing to do with heat treatment and does not strengthen rims.
To make up for that, it costs more.

------------------------------

Subject: 8.19  Reusing Spokes
From: Jobst Brandt <jbrandt@hpl.hp.com>

>I just bent my wheel and am probably going to need a new one
>built.  Can I reuse my old, 3 months, spokes in the new wheel.
>The guy at the shop gave me some mumbo jumbo about tensioning or
>something.

There is no reason why you should not reuse the spokes of your
relatively new wheel.  The reason a bike shop would not choose to do
this is that they do not know the history of your spokes and do not
want to risk their work on unknown materials.  If you are satisfied
that the spokes are good quality you should definitely use them for
you new wheel.  The spokes should, however, not be removed from the
hub because they have all taken a set peculiar to their location, be
that inside or outside spokes.  The elbows of outside spokes, for
instance, have an acute angle while the inside spokes are obtuse.

There are a few restrictions to this method, such as that new rim
must have the same effective diameter as the old, or the spokes will
be the wrong length.  The rim should also be the same "handedness"
so that the rim holes are offset in the correct direction.  This is
not a fatal problem because you can advance the rim one hole so that
there is a match.  The only problem is that the stem will not fall
between parallel spokes as it should for pumping convenience.

Take a cotton swab and dab a little oil in each spoke socket of the
new rim before you begin.  Hold the rims side by side so that the
stem holes are aligned and note whether the rim holes are staggered
in the same way.  If not line the rim up so they are.  Then unscrew
one spoke at a time, put a wipe of oil on the threads and engage it
in the new rim.  When they are all in the new rim you proceed as you
would truing any wheel.  Details of this are in a good book on
building wheels.

The reason you can reuse spokes is that their failure mode is
fatigue.  There is no other way of causing a fatigue failure than to
ride many thousand miles (if your wheel is properly built).  A crash
does not induce fatigue nor does it even raise tension in spokes
unless you get a pedal between them.  Unless a spoke has a kink that
cannot be straightened by hand, they can all be reused.



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